Hey all,
I own a small finishing business. Sanding, edge routing, planing, etc. I was recently hired to veneer a table top with 1/8″ cherry.
Here’s my quandary. Is it possible to rout the cherry without the edge feathering (tearing out?)
Thank you,
Mikaol
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
You can use a downcut spiral bearing guided bit to edge it, but that's about it. Make a practice slab to practice on. The feed rate for the long grain and edge grain might need adjusting to control tearout and burning.
If you are getting tearout along the edge grain you may be routing "uphill". A top/bottom bit will allow you to flip the work so that you always route "downhill". End grain tearout is generally the problem and spiral bits are generally the answer.
GeeDubBee almost certainly has the "right" answer. But just in case it isn't clear, you should rout just like you use a handplane, with the grain.
Having been called out as "wrong", I'll elaborate...
First, we are talking veneer, not solid wood so a flat-bladed router bit is slamming into what amount to unsupported fibers no matter which direction you rout.
Second, a bearing-guided downcut is not only shearing the veneer as you rout, but it is shearing it against the subtrate, effectively using the substrate as a zero-clearance backer to support the cut.
Lastly, I think the expectation of stopping a cut at exactly the spot where grain changes direction to flip the work is unrealistic at best. In that scenario you would have to make a new entry cut exactly at the next grain reversal because you are also reversing the feed direction of the router relative to the work...unless you intend to climb-cut until you reach the next grain reversal.
I don't think that is a recipe for success for Mikaol.
I don't think Fourier's intention was to call anyone "wrong". The picture was just to show the top/bottom bearing bit format. Agreeing with you; I did recommend spiral bits. Since I do flip the work I prefer spiral compression bits. The compression geometry lets the substrate act as the backer with either side up . . . bit height adjusted of course.
I do a lot of template routing and I imagine practice adds up. I alter the bit height and flip the work/template pretty much without even thinking about it. I generally move a bit past the reversal, flip and then overlap that area as I begin to continue the cut.
We all eventually land on the process or method that works best for us. When asked, this is what we tend to recommend.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled