Routing Keyhole Hanger for Beeksvort “Ship Inspired Shelf”
user-7772128
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Some pictures attached of my “test and practice” attempt… OK, here goes.
First time using guide bushings with a palm router and homemade jig to carve out the recess for a keyhole hanger. Yeah, I’m a wee bit wide and tall and I’ll do better later. But I’m wondering about the “squareness” of the routed area, and thinking that maybe a better combination of guide bushing diameter and bit size might yield a better result for the shown hanger. Just so you know: 5/8″ OD for the bushing; 1/4″ for the bit; and 3/4″ for the blank. I’ve gotten this far reading a few articles (Paolini for one), but don’t think I caught on fully, I guess. This should be an “easy one” for a router pro, so thanks in advance for any tips.
/VR/
-tonto
Hartford WI
Replies
Looks like you made multiple passes with a smaller bit. A "perfect" fit (why bother on the back of a wall hanger) is made in a single pass with a bit sized to the hardware and a tightly tuned jig.. If you seek perfect with the smaller bit, beware rotation of a non-concentric router. If you seek a shelf on the wall, nice job... you're done! (except for a deeper cut to house the screw heads).
Before you agonize over what you'll never see again ask yourself one question: "Can I resist the urge to tell everyone I know about the imperfection they cannot see?" Let the answer guide you.
I used those hangers recently and found it easier to drill two 3/8" holes and trim to make an oblong rather than figure 8. Then screwed the hanger on and knifed around it, then chiseled to depth. I only used one hole although there are two in the hanger. Fewer screws are easier to keep it level and find that sweet spot where if fits snugly without pushing or fishing. Also used longer screws than provided. As mj says, no one will see it. And unless your wall is perfectly flat and perfectly plumb there will be other gaps to look at. Also had to use hot melt to keep the dowel centres in the holes.
Gentlemen,
Appreciate your thoughts. I've got time to putz with this while I go easy after a wee bit of surgery last Monday. Think I'll try a smaller diameter bushing next, drop down to 1/2" of maybe even 3/8" (since I only have a 1/4" D/1/4" shank upcut bit.) Should be two passes only, and I've got plenty of bar stock to set the width of the opening (I'll double check that against the D of the bushing.) Granted, that will take longer than drilling/knifing/chiselling, so I'll go that route first, quick and dirty. Maybe I'm making too much work...
/VR/
-tonto
Hartford WI
I was going to give you a hard time about getting Christian's name wrong but FW doesn't even get it right.
Ouch.