I have recently been learning how to rub out finishes and I have a question: Assuming I eventually get good at rubbing out to whatever sheen I desire (usually a satin to semi-gloss) is there any reason to use anything other than gloss clearcoats? I never seem to use it all and would like to keep the number of cans of finish sitting around getting too old to use to a minimum.
On a related note, I know that shellac does not fully dry when it is too old – is there a similar test for other finishes? I use mostly water based topcoats from Target and General Finishes. If the test board dries OK is the finish still good to use?
Thanks
Chris
Replies
rubbing out
Chris,
I use Target coatings, shellac, lacquer and varnish, and I only use gloss. I cut it back with 600 and 1200 wet and dry with water. For a gloss sheen I buff out with Meguiars and for satin I rub out with 0000 steel wool and Liberon wax.
To test for hardness, put a small amount on a piece of glass and see if tou can dent it with your thumb nail the next day. Also, bad finish won't powder when you try to sand it.
Go to Target's web site and sign up for the forum. You'll get answers to any question about their finishes.
Dick
Yes. Maybe.
Chris,
Even if you are competent at rubbing out and like a satin/semi-gloss finish, you still might want to stock those sheens. While in theory, you sacrifice some clarity, you also save yourself work rubbing out every part. I can't remember where I read it, but in some publication (book, I think), the author said that they used gloss for the important surfaces (table top, doors, etc) and semi-gloss or satin on the less-critical surfaces (apron, legs, etc).
With most finishes, you can pour a little onto a piece of glass and let it dry and see if it hardens properly or not. If it works on a test board, I'd go ahead and use it on your project.
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