I’ve got a scrap, about 12″ x 18″ that I used to test a Danish Oil finish that has cured about a week now. I’m going to use it to practice rubbing out a finish — first time I’ve tried to do that. I’ve brand new cans of 2F and 4F Behlen’s Pumice Stone and a can of Rottenstone. I’ve got a quart of paraffin oil. I’ve got a little pile of clean, soft rags. I’ve read about the general approach to rubbing out the finish.
What I’ve not seen (or just missed) is how much pumice stone/paraffin oil to apply as you start, and in what sequence. Do you sprinkle the pumice lightly over the entire surface and then put oil on the rag? Do you wipe oil on the surface and the sprinkle the pumice over that? Do you just dump the entire contents of the can of pumice out in a big pile and then pour the entire can of oil over it? (OK, I know you don’t do that).
What’s the right way and the right quantities of stuff to use?
Thanks!
-M.
Replies
Mark,
Pumice and rottenstone are the final rubbing abrasives used to polish a film finish (varnish or shellac or lacquer finish) after leveling with sandpaper. Not used to rub out a danish oil finish. Danish oil is actually a combination of linseed oil, maybe tung oil and a varnish. The "rubbing out" is a consequence of the wet application itself, not after curing. The varnish film builds with several applications, but is a very thin film layer that is so close to the wood as to look like the surface of the wood itself is polished - not the finish film.
On a varnish finish, pumice is sprinkled on and a rubbing felt pad is used with solvent as the lubricant for both pumice and rottenstone (in sequence).
VL
All's not lost. AFter the DO is well-cured (several days), put a couple coats of varnish on it, then go for your practice runs. Where'd you read about the process? If you haven't read Jeff Jewitt's article, click away and take a look.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Thanks for the link FG! Fantastic article -- I'd not read it before.
What I'm after on my project was a satin finish, and not a high-gloss finish, I now know I need some wool-lube instead of the pumice/rottenstone.
-M.
Some of the "improved" oil finishes with varnish build up like varnish and can be rubbed out...although they are not as durable. Their advantage is that they are renewable and can be topcoated over easily.
Truoil and Permalyn are just two of the trade names. Birchwood Casey products.
The simplest rubout I can think of is 0000 steel wool lubed with Kiwi clear shoe polish followed by a clean diaper buff. Try it sometime.
Jeff's site is a great resource. I have one of his books, and it has helped me much more than the others I've wasted $$ on (ohhhh, so wise in my "maturity"). Glad you found it helpful!forestgirl Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Have you achieved enough surface build with your routine to actually need a rubbing out?
Honestly, I don't know. I put 6 coats of danish oil on it before asking here about how many coats were appropriate. It's cured over a week now. After reading Jeff Jewitt's article, I now understand that since I'm not after a mirror-gloss finish, I'm probably not looking at a true rub-out finish anyway.
On the other hand, it's just for practice anyway, and I don't see any harm in going through the steps just to see what result I get. What the heck.
-M.
MarkH,
I'm experimenting too...perhaps a few hours ahead of you. I applied 6 coats Watco...let it dry...and just steel wooled it with Watco wax..two coats. I rubbed hard enough to remove any gloss that was there and now have a satin but very silky finish. I'll wait a few days and take a look. If I want a finer finish I may start using higher grits and rub ut further.
MarkH and BG,
There is nothing wrong with trying for yourselves. But honestly, there's also nothing wrong with listening to the advice of others who have more experience.
You didn't really understand the Jewett advice, or the nature of the film finish you guys are working on.
"Rubbing out" requires a thick, HARD film that has completely filled the wood pores and whose surface is significantly above the wood. You will not get a glossier finish by rubbing out the varnish film of an oil/varnish finish.
What you WILL get is abrasive particles lodged in the wood grain (looks dirty), some remaining broken areas of thin varnish and some bare wood.
Try using 4-0 steel wool or 400-600 grit wet/dry corborundum paper to apply the last coat of your finish. The abrasive polishes the previous layer, the new finish acts both as a lubricant and fills in the abrasive scratch pattern. The result will vary with the wood you are finishing, but will be a higher gloss than just wiping on and wiping off. Maple, most tropical hardwoods will take a pretty high polish this way. Oak, walnut will have a satin finish. Your mileage will vary.
VL
Venicia,
I do appreciate your comments as well as others....I don't want to give anyone the impression I ask and then just ignore because I don't. Thirty years ago when I did a lot of re-finishing things were much simpler....you could see the ingredience for one thing....and you could mix your own combinations. A few months ago I decided I needed to clarify, for myself, the finishing techniques, document the protocol and go from there.
In this situation I'm finishing a Shaker style lap desk. It is maple with a So. American cherry top....very strong vivid grain. The plans called for a Watco finish...apply, wait 30 mins, apply again, wipe after 15 minutes..let cure. So I did that and had a nice satin finish... I then decided to apply four more coats with steel wool (#4) and each application made the top a bit smoother and a bit glossier. I knew however, that I could always remove the gloss and wither leave it alone, apply varnish or whatever.
Mark appeared to be in about the same place as me....hence, I posted the message. The steel wool with wax has taken the gloss away...and I'm basically back to what the plans initially called for....but the piece appears to be a bit smoother.
I believe I was not rubbing out the finish as it's defined....the thin finish that was there is insufficient to produce a rubbed out finish. In the past I've applied 6 coats of Waterlox and achieved a nice hand rubbed finish. I wanted to see what would happen if I applied 6 coats of Watco...to compare.
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