Replies

1. 
   DonC | Nov 30, 2005 09:28pm | #1

   Very nice table Bob. Poly is a good protector for a table. Rubbing out works best with plain ol' nitrocellouse lacquer. Shines up great after a long cure. for poly, I would suggest fubbing out with 4/) steel wool and lubricant called "Wool Wax". This lube doesn't interfere with future coats either. This will give you a satin sheen. Poly never really buffs up to high gloss like lacquer. But in my opinion, poly is a better choice and protector for a table than lacquer.

   I don't have any expereince with conversion lacquers, but I've read that they are as good a protector as poly and will still rub out nicely even after a short cure time.

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 30, 2005 10:20pm | #2

   I would do this a bit differently, since I don't fine steel wood to be as good as either sandpaper or a scraper at removing the dust nibs before rubbing to the sheen you want.  Sandpaper, wet/dry, of about 600 grit will handle most of the dust nibs, alternaively you can use a cabinet scraper VERY lightly to remove the nibs.  Then you can either use lubricated steel wool, or use a polishing compound.  For a satin finish, I use fine grade pumice, lubricated with Parafin oil--a light mineral oil, often marketed as odorless lamp oil.  For a higher gloss, you can then go to rottenstone, lubricated the same way. 

   Poly is harder to get to look good because it is softer than traditional resin varnishes -- alkyd or phenolic.  (Softer is part of the additional toughness poly provides.)  The traditional resin varnish provide plenty of protection for a table top, unless you plan to walk on it with your shoes on.