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Is there a preferred method of rubbing out a water based finish?
I have used a water based lacquer and the finish is fine except for some mild, what I call ‘dusting’, on the surface. If I just take a dry cloth and pass it over the surface with a little pressure, it seems to get the finish smooth. I don’t want to use a dry cloth to do the entire surface, however, without knowing if there is a more effective way to rub it out.
Most of what I read on rubbing out finishes has to do with solvent based materials. What about water based? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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Is it because of the pressure required that you don't want to use the cloth? Otherwise, sounds like a nice, low-cost method.
I use varnish, not lacquer, might make a difference. I like to do my final rubout with white Scotch-Brite . The white color seemingly has no grit to it, so it is just the plastic of the pad. I can raise a nice semi-gloss with this, it also makes buffing out wax a breeze, should you want to wax.
Dave
*CraigA lot of the basics for rubbing out are the same, regardless of solvent or water base. First, give the piece time to fully cure. Granted this is shorter with water base than solvent, but a few days to a couple weeks can't hurt. Second, use as fine a substance as you possibly can.Dave's comment about the scotch brite is right on. It comes in different grades, identified by their color. I know that everyone gives warnings about it, but I've even used 4-0 steel wool to rub out water base, BUT only after the last coat has been applied & cured. You can also use wet-dry papers. If you only have a few dust nubs, start with an 800 grit. Then go to a 1200. You can follow up with (or start with) rotten stone if you like. Rotten stone can be a lot of work, but it produces good results. Then proceed to the auto swirl mark removers & paste wax. Auto supply stores are good sources for better quality, finer grit papers. Also, Jeff Jewiit's site http://www.homesteadfinishing.com.Good LuckBob
*I just did my first baterbourne finish and it came out fantastic.I used fine steelwool between coats and when complete I used liquidauto polish for a final rub.
*Ken, let me suggest that you have been lucky this time.First, steelwool should not be used with a waterborne product. If any pieces are left in or on the finish, it may very well rust. If you use oak, the steel reacts with the tannin in oak leaving black marks. Use either bronze wool or a scotchbrite pad.Second, liquid auto polish contains water and frequently reacts with waterborne finishes if they are not fully cured. Also, it dries to a white powder that can lodge permanently in the pores of wood like oak. Use only a furniture type paste wax to be sure.
*Ken,I'm with Howard on this...you were lucky. In my previous post I stated I've used steel wool, but only on the final coat and after it cured. There's a strong likelihood of particles being left behind, and even if they don't rust, they'll cause problems.Glad to hear it worked out for you though.Bob
*Craig might be rubbing off overspray from the sound of it. Jeff Jewitt suggests spraying edges first, then the top.
*Craig,I've bee using Abralon pads (made by Mirka) to rub out my finishes (all water based). They were originally designed for polishing the finish on gel coat(fiberglass) applications. They work great.
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