Replies

1. 
   mudman | Sep 30, 2004 07:36am | #1

   Michael,

   I always use thick edging. I usually use 3/4"x3/4" stock planed to match the thickness of the sheet stock. If I am edging a few pieces I use a biscut joiner, This make a very strong edge. It also creates an edge that will hold screws much better than plain sheet stock. The tongue and groove method is better but requires more setup and the joint is visible on the end unless you use a stopped T&G. There are specialty bits for this purpose that are great. A relatively new one cuts a flute in the sheet edge and a mating bull nose on the edging. When set up it joint is invisible and very strong. I couldn't find the bits on Rockler's or Wood Craft's site but look around and you'll find them.

   Have fun,

   Mike

   please excuse my spelling.
2. 
   TomT226 | Sep 30, 2004 01:55pm | #2

   I do a lot of ply edgebanding, and use the strip and caul method.

   First, you need to make some cauls.  Determine how long the piece you are banding needs to be, and make your cauls 6" longer.

   Rip 15/16" oak into 1/4" strips. Make the cauls about 1-1 1/4" thick by stacking them on an MDF form with a bow in the middle of about 2" per 4' length. No need to plane or sand before assembly.  Just spread glue, assemble all pieces, and clapm every 4" or so until you see no gaps.

   After the glue dries, scrape them down, sand and rout a radius on the back so the clamps won't  rack the banding.

   The banding is cut from 15/16" stock, 5/16" thick.  Rip one piece, joint the edge, and continue this until you have enough.  The jointed side goes to the ply edge.

   The gluing process is simple.  Two clamps for each piece are needed.  Dry fit the banding to make sure you have a good fit. Put the clamps at the end of each piece, and tighten up.  The bow in the middle of the caul ensures a tight fit and good squeeze out.  I usually tape a spacer of 1/16" to the top of each clamp to make sure that I have even overhang on each side.  You can buy cheap aluminum clamps for this as there is not much pressure needed and they are easier to move around.  Son't use too much glue, just a thin coat with your finger.

   After the glue has cured, use a lam trimmer and a flush trim bit to trim the overhang flush.  Climb cut so as not to have any tearout.

   A tip:  Cut your panels to finished length minus the edging, apply that, then rip then rip them to finished width minus edging.  Makes a nice joint when you have a good ply blade.

3. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Sep 30, 2004 06:04pm | #3

   Big edgebanding machines -- the kind you find in big commercial shops, not the one-man shop -- can apply edging which is 2 mm and even 3 mm thick.   If you have a big enough run you may be able to find a shop with one of these who will band it for you.