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I have never used shellac before and I would like to use it as a sealer to lock in the water-based dye stains and prior to a glaze and topcoat. I don’t have any way of weighing the shellac and I don’t think the exact cut is important for my application so are there “rules of thumb” for actually mixing shellac “by eye”, for a particular cut? I think that I would like to use a 1-1.5 lb. cut, unless this is wrong for a sealer.
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Replies
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I use shellac all the time and I have never really bothered to weigh it, even though I hear here all this talk about shellac cuts. I mix shellac, by pouring in the dry flakes, and then pouring on enough alcohol to just cover the flakes. It helps to stir the mixture once in a while, this will make it dissolve, more quickly. Most of the time after sitting over night the shellac is ready to use. If it seems a little thick, I just pour in a little more alcohol. Shellac works best if it is on the thin side.I aim more or less, for a consistency of water, or the shellac should run off the brush in a steady stream(not very scientific).
Homestead Finishing products, make an additive called Shellac Wet, which I swear by. It slows down the drying time, and this eases the application with a brush. When not in use, I keep my shellac in the refrigerator.
*Phil, I agree with everything Rob is telling you about shellac, though I haven't tried putting it in the refrig. My shop seems cool enough 9 months out of the year! The secret it to have it thin enough so it doesn't make the brush drag when you apply it.
*Rob, from this quarter, thanks for the information -- and Phil, good timing! After many projects using "easy for beginners" gel varnish or oil varnish (not on the same piece!), I'm about to use shellac as the primary finish on a blanket chest and as the sealer for a multi-layered (stain, seal, glaze, etc.) finish on a large, oak CD cabinet, both of which I've just completed. I've been studying up on how to use shellac, but it's nice to get some additional advice on step 1: mixing.David
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