Replies

1. 
   Lilshaver | Apr 03, 2002 12:05am | #1

   I use UHMW (ultra-high molecular weight, I believe) nylon. You can get it at full service plastics suppliers or around here (Alaska) dog sled suppliers handle it for sled runners. You can cut it with any saw and plane it very smooth. It also drills and taps well.

2. 
   sschefer | Apr 03, 2002 12:07am | #2

   UHMW seems to be all the rage. I use Oak or Walnut but only because I have it laying around.

   Steve - in Northern California

   If the doctor says you have Attention Deficit Disorder, do you pay attention to him?

1. 
   user-6950710 | Apr 03, 2002 02:44am | #4

   Thanks Jeff and Steve.  I did a little google search on UHMW plastic, and it definitely sounds like a winner.  Now to find the stuff.  Thanks.

1. 
   BarryO | Apr 03, 2002 03:02am | #5

   Also, put a coat of finsh over the whole thing.  I'd hate for you to go to all that work and have the thing warp (cup, actually), like mine did.  I think the problem I had was waxing the bottom (for low sliding resistance), and not doing the same to the top.

2. 
   Hophornbeam | Apr 05, 2002 04:47pm | #10

   Hi Jon: Try http://www.woodcraft.com for the plastic. I'm sure http://www.rockler.com will have it too.

   Hophornbeam

3. 
   GregB126 | Apr 03, 2002 02:43am | #3

   Jon,

   Lee Valley/Veritas sells the "plastic" runners.  I have couple of them laying around.  I've actually used only maple....  Make sure your fence is 90 degrees to your table in both directions (vertically, as well to the saw kerf) so you can clamp things to it and have them be vertical to the table.  Also, you may want to let the plywood hang a bit over the edge a bit (like I didn't) so things can be clamped down to it too.  Stability, safety.

   Have fun.

4. 
   TERRE5 | Apr 03, 2002 05:00pm | #6

   I would suggest that you make it only 27" deep.  32" might be a tough reach if you had a wide panel in there to cut.

   I made one about a month ago.  I made mine 27" deep by 24" wide.  I love it.  I made the runners out of ash, because like Steve, that's what I had laying around.  The UHMW stuff is awesome, just pricey.

   I waxed the tablesaw slots and the runners and the underside of the sled.  The fit was a little tight and had a bit of friction, but after I threw the wax on, it slicked up.

   I never knew that I would use this thing so much.

5. 
   PlaneWood | Apr 03, 2002 05:08pm | #7

   I cut the edges off a piece of straight grained 1x4 fir lumber for my runners.  afterwards I shellaced the entire base, sanded, and applied paste wax.  Has worked well for me. 

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood

1. 
   Sancho | Apr 03, 2002 05:23pm | #8

   I make mine outta High Density Poly Ethlyene (HDPE) Its a plastic simular then HUMV plastic but a lot tougher. Its what Jet makes the rail on its Beismeyer knock off TS fence out of. Darkworksite4: When the job is to small for everyone else, Its just about right for me"

1. 
   AlanWS | Feb 19, 2004 08:00pm | #13

   UHMW PE stands for ultra high molecular weight polyethylene, but the PE is dropped off the end sometimes to make it shorter. It's polyethylene, not nylon. It's very tough, like HDPE (high density polyethylene), only more so, and almost as slippery as Teflon.

6. 
   TJinFL | Apr 03, 2002 05:56pm | #9

   Jon,

   I made my sled out of Finnish plywood with maple runners.  I waxed the table and the runners and it slides like "butta".....

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/3/2002 12:52:33 PM ET by TJINFL

7. 
   alexlisa | Apr 05, 2002 08:02pm | #11

   I made a crosscut sled a few years ago out of 3/4" plywood and used phenolic plastic runners I got through Highland Hardware. Having used it for a while I would make the following changes if I were starting over:

   3/4" melamine sled base - more slippery than the plywood

   replaceable wood zero-clearance insert

   UHMW or "incra" adjustable sliders

   built-in blade lexan blade guard

   my two cents

8. 
   proje | Feb 19, 2004 06:56pm | #12

   Jon,

   Unless you've already made your runners - you might consider the aluminum miter runners by Incra - like UHMW, they're immune to seasonal shrink/swell, but they also let you dial in the fit to your miter slot simply by turning a screw. I think you can find them at Woodcraft and/or Woodpecker's. They come in 18" and 24" lengths.

   proje

1. 
   BG | Feb 20, 2004 02:53pm | #15

   Jon,

   When possible, I use the Incra 1000SE for making cross cut on the TS.  When the panel is too large, I use the cross cut sled ...but I want and need the same level of accuracy as I get with the Incra miter. Hard wood strips work well but do react to humidity changes and can introduce slop into the cut.  The UHMW expands with the screw pressure...I've tried gluing into a dado and it would not hold....while it's possible to get it perfect, it's such a pain.

   I use the Incra runner (24") and that keeps things tight.  I only have a front fense and that is adjustable.  My only wish is that the 24" runner was 6" longer... 

   For me, the sled is often involved with large (wider than 10") and usually fairly long(heavy) pieces....any play in the sled will be problematic...

9. 
   SEBDESN | Feb 20, 2004 01:15am | #14

   I run an oak, or whatever board I have around thru the planer so its just the correct thickness (as the width of the slots) and then when I need some I just rip off a new set. I build a lot of one-off sleds for various projects,so I always have some stuff around. Little johnsons paste wax and you are done.

   Bud