Replies

1. 
   highfigh | Mar 20, 2006 04:52am | #1

   I used 3M Scotch Brite pads for metal. If you want, use WD 40 or something, but I'm not totally sure it's necessary. Just something else to clean off. If you do this dry, wear a good dust mask.

   My jointer was totally covered in rust from condensation (I thought I had waxed it- I was wrong!) and I removed the fence, then scrubbed the tables with the pads. Maybe 15 minutes and they were totally clean. The fence took a few more minutes. If you want to use something softer after getting the rust off just to make the top smoother, the green Scotch Brite pads are less aggressive. Wipe it down with solvent when the rust is gone, until the rag or towel comes up clean.

   I was using Top Cote ( available at WoodCraft and Rockler, among others) and while it works pretty well, for the price, paste wax is a better value since there's no overspray to waste the wax. I've been using Minwax paste wax on my hand planes and squares lately and it seems to do the job pretty well. Time will tell. Boe Shield is supposed to be really good, too. I haven't tried it, but I see it all over.

   Rust on the top isn't the end of the world. I would look at the motor and the mechanism under the top to make sure it's not totally rusted. Good luck and enjoy it.

   Maybe you could post some before and after pictures.

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

   
   

   ---

   Edited 3/19/2006 9:53 pm by highfigh

2. 
   SawdustSteve | Mar 20, 2006 06:08am | #2

   Hi Mike.... here's my method of removing rust from machine tops: Remove the fence and spray the top with WD40. Take a quarter sheet of 100 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a wooden sanding block. Sand north-south, adding more WD40 as needed. Then sand east-west, again adding WD40 as needed. Now sand NE-SW and SE-NW.wipe up all the excess WD40 and repeat the same proceedure with 220 grit wet-dry sandpaper and WD40. Once again wipe off ALL the sludge and wipe everything down with alcohol or laquer thinner to degrease the top. Use a piece of steel wool to rub in a good coat of 'Johnsons Paste Wax' or 'Butchers Wax.' Let the wax dry for about 10 minutes and buff the top with a clean rag. Repeat the wax a second time. This should get rid of the rust. Some people like their machine surfaces 'bright' steel, I prefer to remove the rust but leave that great plumb brown color on the tops. The whole proceedure should take less than one hour of actual time. You will probably want to take a break or two if your arms are not up to this great work-out. Now, the most important thing... apply JUST the wax coating once a month, more often if you are in a very humid area or the wood feels like it is hard to push across the saw table-top. I've been using this system for many years on a large number of machines. It works nicely, and it's inexpensive. PLEASE do not use any automobile wax on your machinery as most contain some form of silicone. Silicone will give you problems with wood finishing further down the line.
   SawdustSteve

3. 
   user-126535 | Mar 20, 2006 07:27am | #3

   Hey Mike;  The depth of the rust is the biggest thing to look at when trying to determine how to allieviate it.  Also how to prevent it from happening in the future. I've dealt with this numerous times when purchasing second hand machinery etc. I've found that the scotch brite pads work well if the rust is only 'skin deep'....just sitting on the top etc.  If it's worse than that you might think about this.  I've used this method several times without any damage to the table tops. Before I go any further let me say that not all people will agree with this saying you'll ruin your top etc. etc. Like I said, I've done this to my machinery numerous times with NO damage to the tops.  If you have a electric sander (random orbit sanders works the best) and 150/180 al. oxide sand paper start by sanding lightly from one corner moving slowly over the entire top as if you were painting the top.  Pay attention on what you're accomplishing and remove the rust only.  If you continue to sand you will remove the rust and then start removing fine metal shavings.  This is when you need to lighten up a bit because you do not want to damage your table top by having highs and lows on it....but you would have to sand in one spot for quite a bit before doing this.  Like I said, I've done this numerous times and it works the best when having heavy rust.  After completing this task, you can use 'Top Cote' which works well but you have to continue applying it more often depending on how often you use the machine and how much lumber goes across the top and your climate.  I've also used Boe Shield which works well but doesn't seem to dry to the touch like the other and this might play havoc with some finshes if you do not prep well. The thing we use the most in the shop is paste wax.  Trewax or Minwax both due a great job of sealing out the moisture out but here again, this is NOT a one time application. Stay after it. One more thing.  Take the time to look at the carriage and yoke and anything else that could have been affected by moisture.  You have a good saw, take the time to tune it up, clean it up! Good Luck !

    

    

    

4. 
   Dave45 | Mar 21, 2006 05:15am | #4

   That rust will be totally impossible to remove but I'll gladly take that saw off of your hands for twice what you paid for it - lol.

   If you're just dealing with surface rust (no large pits or "bubbles")  a sanding block and some 100 grit sandpaper should clean it up pretty quickly.  Sand just enough to get the rust loose and vacuum it up.  When I do this, I like to go over it with sucessively finer grits (150 and 220) then finish up with a scotchbrite pad and window cleaner.  When it's squeaky clean, I give it a coat of automotive paste wax. 

   Prevention will depend on your climate and your propensity to sit wet stuff on your saw table.  Mine has a couple of permanent coffee cup rings which add to it's charm.  I live in a pretty dry climate (northern CA) and usually clean and re-wax my shop tools every year - just before the rainy season.

5. 
   gb93433 | Mar 21, 2006 06:21am | #5

   At the end of each day of use, I spray the tops of all my equipment with silicone spray. Most of the machinery has only darken some over time.

1. 
   user-126535 | Mar 21, 2006 06:47am | #6

   FYI You probably already are aware of this but for those who don't.... The use of Silicon spray products on table tops or anything that will come in contact with wood will interfere with certain finishes especially Lacquer finishes.  It will cause 'fish eye' if not preped well prior to finishing.... Just thought some might like to know if they don't already...

   Steve

1. 
   gb93433 | Mar 21, 2006 06:55am | #7

   I don't use that much and always wipe off the excess with a rag or paper towels. That keeps the silicone from beading up. Have never once had a problem with finishes.

6. 
   jimmy | Mar 21, 2006 07:00am | #8

   naval jelly...then wax. 

7. 
   user-104711 | Mar 22, 2006 09:29am | #9

   I use paste wax to coat the top of my tablesaw and after buffing it, I keep it covered with several layers of newspaper, so far it has worked well for me. My saw is in an unheated garage and I'm sure the clothes dryer puts quite a bit of moisture in the air. As for rust removers, there are some fairly good ones out there, but I can't think of any names right now.

8. 
   woodworker3301 | Mar 22, 2006 07:52pm | #10

   Mike,

   I've been doing quite a bit of rust removing lately.  My father had a house fire.  For the metal on his Table Saw I sprinkled a liberal coat of BON-AMI, household cleaner, on the table saw.  I put a scotch brite pad under my Orbital sander and scrubbed the entire surface.  Once rust was removed, I crumpled Wax Paper in my hand and began scrubbing the surface again.  It will take a little while but will come clean.  I don't like to use oils on tools due to interference with finish coats on wood.

   Good Luck!  Send some pix when finished.

   Woodworker 3301.

    

9. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 24, 2006 02:16am | #11

   Orbit sander and ALOT of different grits! If ya carefull it will still be flat as it was to begin with..

   A old card scraper will take off ALOT of rust before ya' begin...

10. 
    tinkerer2 | Mar 24, 2006 05:18am | #12

    I use a dehumidifier in my shop and haven't noticed any rust.  I am surprised no one has mentioned it.  Probably not the most economical method.

11. 
    KiddervilleAcres | Mar 26, 2006 04:52am | #13

    Great suggestions and I would also recommend that you also cover the top of your saw when thru for the day.  I place my crosscut sled on the tablesaw at the end of each day. 

    Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    Kidderville, NH

     

     

    Use whatever tool needed to Git 'r Done!

1. 
   TonLoc | Mar 29, 2006 06:56pm | #14

   I have a General Builders saw. When I inadvertently left the rip fence on the saw over the cast iron there were two significant rust lines left from the underside of the fence coinciding with the two strips of multi ply- plywood on the biesemeye style fence.

    Question:

    If I keep the saw covered, won't that happen all over the surface?

1. 
   highfigh | Mar 29, 2006 07:08pm | #15

   Not necessarily. When you have a temperature inversion, the air warms up rapidly and the top stays cold/cool, forming condensation. With a cover, the air under the material warms slower and the top gets a chance to catch up from the warmer air under it, where the painted surfaces are. I had a major rust problem with my jointer last winter and this time, I put a moving blanket over it (cheap one from Harbor Freight) and there's no rust. Granted, last year I didn't wax it but after I cleaned it and waxed it, it shows no signs of rusting. My TS gets a lot more use and while I have a little bit of rust on it, it stays uncovered and I make a habit of not putting things on the steel top. I keep my fence over the extension table. Before teh extension, I put the fence over the top once and after seeing the rust, never again.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

2. 
   jeff100 | Mar 30, 2006 07:31am | #16

   I left a piece of oak I was making a wooden card scraper out of, on the table of my NEW bandsaw.  Next afternoon, when I went out to start work, the oak had rusted the table of my NEW bandsaw.

   My bandsaw is not NEW anymore....:>(

   I'll never leave wood sitting on any of my machines again...

   Jeff