Replies

1. 
   BrentS | Apr 05, 2005 05:01am | #1

   JR,

     I use Top Coat and it works great for me.We have a lot of humidity here in the summer and cold and humidity in the winter,but there's no rust on my machines.

       I start by cleaning the surface with mineral spirits and  letting it dry for about a half hour.Then I spray about 3-4 times the amount of Topcoat the instructions say.I let that dry for about 15-20 minutes,then buff it out with shop paper towels(the blue ones work great).

       I repeat this every 3-4 months and I have rust free cast iron.

       The other thing is don't leave ANYTHING on your cast iron surfaces and brush them off when you're finished cutting.Sawdust is a great moisture attractor.

                                                                          Hope this helps,

                                                                                          Brent

1. 
   rosasco | Apr 07, 2005 09:54pm | #4

   Thanks Brent. I'll look into Top Coat. Funny there aren't more reviews
   on these materials.

2. 
   Glaucon | Apr 05, 2005 10:03pm | #2

   I use T9- it works fine for me.

   Glaucon

1. 
   rosasco | Apr 19, 2005 01:23am | #6

   Thanks for your response about the protectant/lubricant.I bought some T-9. One thing I'm wondering is how careful
   I need to be about getting on the wood and affecting glueing
   surfaces.I take it you spray on and wipe off with a shop towel ?

1. 
   Glaucon | Apr 19, 2005 05:27am | #7

   >I bought some T-9. One thing I'm wondering is how carefulI need to be about getting on the wood and affecting glueingsurfaces<

   Yes-a very thin coat is all that you need.  Don't worry too much about getting a little on the wood. I routinely wipe down my wood surfaces with mineral spirits prior to finishing, for the following reasons-

   1. It doesn't raise the grain,

   2. It pulls out any imperfections in the sanded/planed surface for correction,

   3. It gives you a preview of what the srface would look like with a shellac or varnish topcoat,

   4. It dissolves any oil (from the plane or my fingerprints) and

   5. It evaporates in a few minutes, leaving no reidue.

   Glaucon

1. 
   BarryO | Apr 19, 2005 09:12am | #8

   Topcote doesn't work very long for me.  T-9 works alot longer.

3. 
   JerryLen | Apr 06, 2005 01:53pm | #3

   I also use Topcote about every 3 months.  I live near the Gulf Coast and have plenty of rain and humidity.  Topcote works well for me and for a while after application the wood slides on the cast iron like an air puck.

1. 
   rosasco | Apr 07, 2005 09:54pm | #5

   Thanks Jerry.

4. 
   WillGeorge | Apr 22, 2005 10:18pm | #9

   Laguna tools putting it on $10,000 combination machines.?????

   Gee  Bees wax works!

1. 
   rosasco | May 10, 2005 07:53pm | #14

   It's true. I witnessed it first hand. :o

5. 
   mbutz | Apr 25, 2005 04:28am | #10

   Top Kote didn't seem to work well on the first couple of applications; but is keeping off the rust now. I think I didn't put enough on the first time. After 3 applications it has now kept the rust off my table saw for several months.

   I've also heard that rubbing wax paper on the top will work - haven't tried myself.

6. 
   geezergeek | May 04, 2005 11:36am | #11

   On ground cast iron tables I have been successful using "pure carnuba" or "mold release" paste wax combined with powdered graphite made for lubricating locks. I apply the mixture with a fine grain scotchbrite pad, scooping wax onto the pad I then squirt a small amount of the powdered graphite on to the wax coated scotchbrite pad. Unlike most paste waxes you cannot let carnuba wax dry for more than a few minutes or else it becomes hard to buff off. Since cast iron is porous it will probably take two or three applications before it is sufficiently coated with the mixture. After that it only takes a coat every week or two to keep it from developing what I call an "Oregon Suntan". For other stuff like handscrew threads, wrenches, pliers, etc., I use a generic spray on lemon pledge clone like the zep brand at home depot. The spray has a mostly parafin content which works well in that application. Hope this helps, Joe.

1. 
   zorrosdens | May 06, 2005 06:02am | #12

   Give Minwax Finishing Wax a try...it works like a gem, will not foul up any finishing. A can of it lasts "forever", cheap, and useful for other wood touching up if you like.  Leave the rag in the can and even screw a wood handle to the top.  Will DEFINITELY help any thing that rusts and you can use it with impunity.  Do a real good first time on your tool then if it seems to feel draggy just give it a fast hit....you don't need to give that elbow grease burn job after that first good hit to tune it up.  And no need to buff it off, though you can.  Good luck.   ~Z~

   Edited 5/5/2005 11:10 pm ET by zorro

   Edited 5/5/2005 11:13 pm ET by zorro

   Edited 5/9/2005 8:12 pm ET by zorro

2. 
   rosasco | May 10, 2005 07:55pm | #15

   For anybody tuning in, I tried carnuba wax from months and it was very ineffective near the ocean. One week and the "Oregon Sunset" (as fellow woodworker so dubbed it) is on your tools already.WD-40 is much better than Carnuba Wax for rust prevention here.T-9 is much better than WD-40 - same rust protection as WD-40 without the
   machine oil residue.Thanks very much to all in the forum who helped me unravel this one.

1. 
   geezergeek | May 12, 2005 10:27pm | #16

   I use duralube in a aerosol can instead of wd40, it is cheaper than t9 and a little bit more than wd40 but it seems to do a good job.  I use it on my non woodworking tools   exclusivly.  Sorry to hear you didn't fare well with the carnuba wax, the only wax that I have had success with is "Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #8" Maximum Mold Release Wax that I get from tap plastics.  It seems to work even better with the powdered graphite mixed into it on a scotchbrite pad.  I am about 70 miles from the ocean, but I live in wet western oregon.  I will say however I was surprised that it worked at all since I had tried Trewax and Minwax paste wax prior with no success whatsoever.  The true test for me is if it works on my cobbled together shopsmith I have mounted on cast cement 'sonatube"pillars on the slab that was previously my shop floor.  I just toss a tarp over the SS and bunge cord it to the pillars on both ends when not in use.  I was prepared for it to be continually rusted given the rain and moisture, and it was until I tried the mold release wax/graphite combo.  The reason I didn't try it before was that it is so expensive and I am a pennypincher so it didn't get a trial until the very last.  I didn't expect it to be noticably better than the other waxes to the point I almost didn't try it at all.  Anywho, I guess there are still a few new tricks this old dog don't know.....Joe.

1. 
   BarryO | May 13, 2005 09:31am | #17

   The true test for me is if it works on my cobbled together shopsmith I have mounted on cast cement 'sonatube"pillars on the slab that was previously my shop floor.  I just toss a tarp over the SS and bunge cord it to the pillars on both ends when not in use.

   You're not saying this is outside, are you?  I shudder at the thought of leaving any cast iron outside in this climate.

   --Barry

   Banks, Oregon

1. 
   geezergeek | May 13, 2005 10:36am | #18

   The old Mk-V model 500 SS holds up well under that tarp from Lucille's tool store in Hillsboro. However, I thin the unit I have is comprised of Aluminum or Aluminum alloy castings but the way tubes on the bottom and the rack and pinion table supports are a very rustable steel. Thank goodness the upper way tubes that everything slides on are stainless steel.The DIY polymer cement columns I poured for the base instead of those sheet metal skirts makes her look far more business like, about 8" taller too. I am convinced that the solid columns have added a great deal of ridgidity making it do almost everything better, except roll out of the way when done using it. I tinted the cement black with some pigment I had left over from some past project. The aluminum gets a little corroded if I neglect it, but the cement has fared well, no rust, corrosion, or anything else I can see so far.
   Living in Banks, you might know where Bald Peak State Park is located. I am just about a mile from there, almost the same elevation. Mostly clear sky, and dead calm up here if you know what I mean Barry, I hear Banks can get rained on pretty hard however. An old geezer like me could get a real bad cold in a place like that, got to be careful you know.
   Hope to rebuuild my shop this summer if I am lucky. A geezer can get lucky once in a while you know Barry, keep your fingers crossed for me on this one.....regards, Joe.

7. 
   jim | May 07, 2005 02:19pm | #13

   Baby powder works best for me.  I take a blackboard eraser dump some baby powder on the surface and pack the pores, works great!  About every three months works in Mid-Michigan.

   Good luck,

   Big Bird

8. 
   WillGeorge | May 13, 2005 08:33pm | #19

   What is the most effective way to prevent rust on cast iron..

   Move to Saudi Ariba?