Replies

1. 
   vacabby | Jan 06, 2003 10:46pm | #1

   I think you will have much better results with a Butcher's wax or bar wax.   Heavy paste furniture wax.   I don't believe I'd be sanding on those surfaces any more than absolutely needed.   The paste furniture wax will not only give you great protection but there are some chemicals in auto waxes that as they come in contact with your wood may cause you some finishing difficulties later.   The paste wax will provide you a very smooth and slick surface to work on as well.   Use it in your miter channels as well.  This will make the use of your miter gauge much smoother.   I believe you will find this to be the answer.

   Good Luck to you.

   JB

1. 
   BertJ | Jan 07, 2003 06:40pm | #4

   JB-

   I live in a relative humid environment in the hill country of Central Texas and solved the humidity problem with a dehumidifier. It is not unusual for me to collect as much as a gallon of water daily on humid days, in a small garage workshop. I also keep the big tools covered with plastic, but find the dehumidifier does a first-rate job of keeping the room dry. Prior to using the dehumidifier my chisels and other steel tools were prone to rust, but now they are fine.

1. 
   vacabby | Jan 07, 2003 07:04pm | #5

   I live in th Mid-Atlantic area on the east coast.   My first shop was a basement shop.   Not much problem in the winters but I used a dehumidifier in the summers when our humidity levels hang around 80-90% and collected 3-5 gallons of water a day in my shop area alone.   I have been woodworking all my life and an older gentleman told me to use butchers wax on my equipment when I was much younger.   I have never had an oxidation problem since.  I re-wax religiously.  It also allows the stock to move accross my work tables much easier.   My shop now is 40 x 60 and above ground where I can actually see sunlight.   I still wax often.   It has become part of the routine and summers are still quite humid.

2. 
   jcutrer | Jan 08, 2003 01:25am | #6

   thanks for your reply-it makes a lot of sense-several other replies also mentioned butcher's wax-what is buthcer's wax-is it a brand or just a type of wax-i've looked in several catalogs & can't find it-thanks for any info

1. 
   vacabby | Jan 08, 2003 07:07am | #9

   Simply use a furniture paste wax.   Like Minwax paste.   Automotive waxes have petrolium based products in them that can penetrate wood fibers as the stock is passed over the saw/shaper/jointer/etc., table.   This can affect the ability of stain or finish to penetrate the wood surface later in the process.    Nearly any paste suitable for furniture will do the job.

   Good luck to you.

   JB

2. 
   robkutner | Jan 07, 2003 12:29am | #2

   I agree with JB.  In the SF Bay Area, we get a lot of fog that takes its toll on my table saw top.  After sanding out the rust spots and then polishing the top with 1000x and up paper, I coated it with Butchers paste wax, and it's been fine.  Not only that, but big heavy boards slide VERY easily over the top, giving better control of a cut, better accuracy, and in the end, better furniture!

   Best of luck,

   Rob

3. 
   mrles | Jan 07, 2003 01:11am | #3

   I live in Baytown TX probably close to the same plants you live by. I've used baby powder for several years and have been very successful keeping my saws free of rust. Clean off all your wax, dust lightly with baby powder, when you are ready to use them brush or vac off. Be sure you tell your wife what you are doing, might keep from trying to explain that sweet smell on your clothes.

   God Bless

   les

1. 
   KevinLBS | Jan 08, 2003 01:31am | #7

   Wow, look at all these people in the Houston area... I'm in Galveston. I haven't had a problem with rust, but then my shop is fully enclosed with heat/AC.  I use TopCote, and I like the ease of use.

   Maybe we could get Richard Jones (aka Squian Dubh) to have us all over at his shop for a drink.. :)

   Kevin

1. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 08, 2003 02:51am | #8

   In a million years, future archeologists will wonder why there is so much iron oxide around the old Texas coastline!

   I use TreWax on my cast iron surfaces.  Tools that I used to store outside in Okla, quickly rusted away after I moved to south TX.  Hoe's, rakes, wheel barrows, etc.

   Another way to minimize rust here is to keep a fan blowing on the tools.  In the warmer weather I keep a small fan running 24/7 in my shop, directed in the general direction of my tools with cast iron tops.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood

2. 
   DKZimm | Jan 09, 2003 07:18am | #13

   Kevin,

   I think an important factor in the shops around South Texas and Galveston and Baytown is the amount of salt air coming in off of the Gulf of Mexico. That salt air will rust stainless steel, as my friend found out on his sportfisher's marlin tower. I live in Austin, (Central Texas for all y'all Yankees) and while it also gets pretty humid from time to time, I don't have a problem with rust on my table saw or jointer. Both are coated annually with paste wax, nothing else is needed. Maybe a Texas coalition could be formed here, maybe having visits to other Texas shops?

   Don Z.If I could only remember what I did with my memory....

1. 
   biosf1 | Jan 09, 2003 07:44am | #14

   Don't talk about us Yankees at least we were industerlized and built automobiles before the south did , We have trouble with humidity near the Great lakes to, and the  cold don't help things eather. I spray mine with top-coat and if I 'm gone for along time ,cover them with a sheet of masinite.

2. 
   mrles | Jan 09, 2003 09:28am | #15

   I met a fellow from around Austin at a  Winedale  craft show 3 or 4 years ago who makes some beautiful rocking chairs. I also saw one of them on the Strand in Galveston and also in Dallas. I can't recall his name, do you have any idea who he is? He was selling his chairs for around $1500. at Winedale. They were well worth the price, I would image they are a lot higher now.

   I love the Hill Country, my youngest daughter and family moved to San Antonio in October they are having a house built off 281 20 miles north of the city. Can hardly wait for July/August and hit New Braunfelds (sp?) Comal, cold beer, German Sausage, Gurene. To any non Texans reading this Central Texas was settled by Germans and the German influence is still there. We go every year we can and never tire of it.

   God Bless

   les

1. 
   SgianDubh | Jan 09, 2003 05:47pm | #16

   Gary Weeks probably, Les. Slainte.Some stuff I've made.

2. 
   mrles | Jan 10, 2003 09:23am | #18

   Gary Weeks rings a bell, I think you are right Richard, if I could find a place to put one of his rockers in my house I would have one. I personally think his work is as good as Sam M., not slamming Sam but Gary is good.

   I see you have some of your "stuff" as you call it on Sunset. Your work is good too, I'm in that area occasionally next time I'm over there I plan on stopping by and feeling of it. You got to feel wood to appreciate it.

   God Bless

   les   

3. 
   riverr1 | Jan 10, 2003 10:09am | #19

   Fortunately I've never had a problem with rust except for my own stupid actions, but all the rust discussions always start with something about a machine top. Doesn't the rust effect the rest of the machine? WD-40, silicone spray, some type of petroleum spray, what? It just seems there should be more concern with those areas you ain't seeing everyday.

   Don

4. 
   billyg83440 | Jan 11, 2003 12:37am | #20

   I think the major reason for this is that typically the table is the only part made of cast iron. Cast iron oxidizes and rusts at a much faster rate then any steel. Cast iron is very dense and stable, which is why it is used in this application. The tradeoff is it's tendency to rust very quickly.

   To top this, it has no protective coating on it during use. The saw body and stand are painted, the arbor and gears are painted or coated w/ grease; but the table top is bare naked. I once purchased an older craftsman saw that had been left outside. I wanted the fence and extensions. The painted fence, guide rails, and stamped steel extensions were in good to great condition. As was the saw body and stand. The top had rusted completely through at the miter slots.

   Never got to examine it further, purchased it at a thrift store. Had to go back next day w/ a trailer to pick it up and someone had stolen it during the night. Still have the fence, it was a loose part so I'd taken it with me to prevent theft or loss, didn't work so well.

   Anyway, my 2 cents.

   Bill

5. 
   riverr1 | Jan 11, 2003 03:27am | #21

   Bill,

   That makes sense, but isn't the trunion cast also? Mine is painted also, but the machined surfaces are not. Might be some other parts also. But I was thinking of all the posts those that live in geographically harsh environments for machines. Castings may be the first to show signs of rust, but in something like a salt air environment, wouldn't the salt eventually get to the "out of sight, out of mind," areas of machines? I was also thinking that all bare metal might be more susceptible in these environments. Especailly true at the higher risk areas like those that mate together to different types andor kinds of metal, e.g. tool steel fasteners to casting. I guess not, because no one has ever posted about having to deal with problem. Thanks.

   Don

   --sorry to hear about geting ripped off!! 8-(

   Edited 1/10/2003 7:28:52 PM ET by Don C.

6. 
   billyg83440 | Jan 13, 2003 07:14pm | #23

   Well, I'm not a metalurgist, though I work with one.<G>

   My only guess would be that the flat top of a machine is much more likely to have water set on it. The parts underneath are somewhat protected and accumulated moisture could drip off. The longer something stays moist, the more rusting occurs.

   Never had to deal with salt air. I'd assume that'd take its toll on every part of a machine. People in those areas may want an aluminum topped table saw.

   As with anything, it's a matter of maintenance. I just purchased an older toolbox. The paint has protected most of the surfaces, but has worn off in others allowing some rust to start. Same with the drawer slides where the grease has worn off. A wire brush, some degreaser and elbow grease, then a fresh coat of paint, and it'll probably work my entire life w/o a rust problem.

   But, hey I live in Idaho. Low humidity, and very little problems with rust unless you leave things outside. What do I know.

3. 
   KevinLBS | Jan 09, 2003 06:02pm | #17

   Hi Don-

   You know, I discovered the voracity of the salt air a couple of months ago when I tried to buy some black pipe for pipe clamps. It's against the law to sell it in Galveston County! "But I promise it's not going to be used for plumbing."  "Sorry, no black pipe anywhere in Galveston" was the reply...

   Yeah, and no hardwood suppliers within 70 miles either...

   Kevin

3. 
   billballeza | Jan 15, 2003 06:12am | #25

   I'm in Houston, too.. even been to Richard Jones' shop and looked all over for a bottle of Belhaven with no success. I did notice that none of the cast iron surfaces had any rust on them.. to the contrary, everything looks pretty darn shiny in there. As for my humble tool surfaces.. a weekly rubbing with Johnsons paste wax does the trick.. applied with 0000 steel wool if necessary.

4. 
   Turbo | Jan 08, 2003 07:07am | #10

   Dear JCUTRER:

        I am unfamilar with Butcher's Wax as you are.  Trewax's main ingredient (50%) is Carnauba Wax imported from Brazil.  You may wish to consider calling one of FWW's advertizers as Veritas, Rockler, etc. toll-free numbers and seeing what ingredients Butcher's Wax have in it.  In the Mid-West, Trewax is available in the better hardware stores.  It sounds like you have a tough problem.  Best of luck!

                                                                        Turbo

1. 
   vincent843 | Jan 08, 2003 08:38pm | #11

   Hi,

   What about Howard Feed and wax from HD. Have anyone get any ideas. Thanks.

5. 
   jeffn7 | Jan 08, 2003 09:39pm | #12

   do you worry about what those pollutants do to your health?

6. 
   Pierre42g | Jan 12, 2003 05:30am | #22

   Since I hold the humidity level at 62 degrees in my shop, the cast iron tables don't have tendency to rust, I installed a 500 watts electric heater in my 16"x24" isolate shop, the heater run 24/24 hours and it's enough to hold humidity level at 62 degrees, don't go above 62 degrees.

   Peter

7. 
   LesBartel | Jan 15, 2003 05:58am | #24

   I just waxed my table saw and jointer tables.  As I was reaching for the rag to buff the wax off, I though to  myself, self, there's a bunch of sawdust on the floor, use that instead.  Worked great.  Still had to use a rag to the the wax out of the miter slot.

    - les