Attached is a Sketchup model I did of a bunkbed design. Not my design, it is someone else’s, and the client wants it as shown. The ladder for access to the top bunk is not shown, and is at one end.
All to be of CVG doug fir, the posts are 5 x 5 finished. The two end panels are shop made, and then all the remaining parts, plus the two panels, are taken into the room, and final assembly done there.
The questions I have are about takedown. With the built-in drawers below, and given all the frame and panel stuff at the back side, this isn’t something that could readily be knocked down for moving without a whole lotta special KD fasteners.
Would you just build the thing, and let the client know that it is like a piece of built-in furniture, and cannot be moved from the room once built?
What sort of end fasteners would you use for the two front top rails, that would facilitate the bedding being easily made up and swapped?
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Does the ladder go up the front of the bed, so that the two top rails die into the ladder and not the post? I'd recommend that configuration, over one where the user has to crawl over the headboard. Think headroom, too. The top rails will always be a pain when it comes to making the bed, but not nearly as much of a pain as those side panels will be. Imagine tucking in a sheet or blanket with the panel in the way...ouch. The phrase "user-hostile" comes to mind. At a minimum you need to add a lower rail that is 4" above the bed (mattress-supporting) rail to give hands the room needed to change the bedding.
I see no problems with keeping it all KD. The panels sit in grooves and the rails all KD into the posts. You might consider bolts that go through the posts and are tightened from the outside: they are much easier to deal with than completely hidden ones that require wrench tightening.
Make the drawers separable from the bed frame to keep it KDable. They could be a separate case assembly that butts into the back of the posts and rails, instead of tying them all together more.
Bottom line - bunk beds are never permanent. Making them built-in makes it a pain when the kid out grows them, or the house is sold. I would not build it in the room and then tell the client that it will never leave, except if busted apart.
Thanks for the input re KD. Here is a pic of the model, which is pretty representational of what the client wants.
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Ladder goes up the end. Their decision, it plays into the full-ex drawers below. I put the angle into it . . . they sketched one just flat to the end.
The case for the drawers will be separate, per your suggestion, but will fix to the leg posts with screws accessed by taking out the drawers.
The longways mattress support boards at front, and the board-and-panels stuff in back, will go into mortises and slots in the legs, and be screwed through the legs with the screw heads in deep counterbores, the counterbores plugged with tapered plugs. With lipped plugs, and one tiny spot of glue per plug, they should be secure enough to stay there for the years the beds will remain before some takedown.
The rails at the front can be readily removed by means of the joint shown here. 7/16" diameter steel pins are socketed into drilled holes and fixed with epoxy. They go into the end-routed feature done with a 1/2" bit as shown.
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I understand it's what the owner thinks they want...have they seen a bunk bed with a ladder at the end like that? Have they thought about trying to climb down one in the dark? You could still have a ladder in the front as long as it doesn't go all the way to the ground (they usually don't, anyway). Just secure it to the bottom bunk bed rail (3" screws from the back side). If you can't picture this, attach the sketchup file and I'll show you.
The rail supports slipping on to steel pins look like they could be accidentally loosened and could result in a fall. Lawsuits and bunk beds are frequent companions. I'd bolt those rails securely and not rely on hope that they won't loosen. No need to have the slip on mortises cut, just use the pins like dowels for alignment.Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
Pondfish, thanks very much for the advice. Take a look here. The ladder needs a little work, but I believe I have followed your precepts. No more quickfit joints for those front rails.
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Gene, looks better but place the ladder at one end of the bed, fixing it to the post. It will be stronger and make it easier for the lower bunk resident to get in and out. You can still have two upper rails if you want, though one is usually sufficient provided it is high enough.
I'm still leary about making the beds with those big panels. Make sure the female of the household knows what's planned...Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
I am just Sketchuping this bed for the guy that's gonna build this thing, and it was his one page two-view 3/4" = 1'-0" drawing that showed me the way. Two identical bunkbeds are to be built, apparently for the kids dorm of some big expensive ski house out near Tahoe.
There was so much of the darned thing that was just plain ill-thought-out.
If you are a Google Sketchup user, you can go to the 3D warehouse and download any model you like for a two-decker, all of them simpler than this, all of them (if they have a ladder) with the ladder up one end of the front. My model is now as you suggested, ladder-wise.
None have the mattresses three-walled like this design. Those with three sides of rails around each have them picketed with posts spread out at maybe 6" clear space between, but even done that way I would hate to have to be the one that makes the bed or changes the bedding.
The best one was done by someone who scaled a cadet double bunk at the USAF academy in Colorado. It was the only one with pullout drawers under. Construction was likely steel for the posts, as they are small in profile. There are no rails, and no ladder, thus each bed is very easy to make.
Can't do that for little boys, though. So I guess as for bunk beds for little boys or girls, we are sort of stuck here, right?
Thanks again for your helpful suggestions.
The Consumer Product Safety Commission has issued regulations giving safety specifications. I've given a link for what appears to be a summary of them, though there are apparently more comprehensive rules than on the pdf. As you say, lawsuits abound, so take care.
http://www.cpsc.gov/businfo/regsumbunkbed.pdf
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