Replies

1. 
   charnwood | Sep 18, 2005 10:52pm | #1

   I read an article in a woodwork magazine which suggested  removing rust by electrolysis.

   Sadly I did not purchase the magazine  but this may be an area to investigate for suitable items

    

   regards Charnwood

1. 
   mudman | Sep 18, 2005 11:13pm | #2

   I believe that Forest Girl used some sort of super rust remover last year. The stuff looks amazing a few people around here used it and said nothing comes close to it. The Navy uses it and on their web site they show amazing examples of its power. The only downside is that you have to completely imerse the parts in the chemical (which is enviro-friendly). for a table saw top you would have to build a dam around the perimiter and flood the table, then cover the pool with plastic. Someone posted pics of a band saw that was rehabed with this stuff and it was amazing. There is no hand work necessary, just let it soak for a day.

   Mike

2. 
   KzooRichie | Sep 19, 2005 12:07am | #3

   check out http://www.owwm.com/ 

   Also I have had good luck w/ boeshield products.

3. 
   Steinmetz | Sep 19, 2005 02:26am | #4

   finishcarp, Get a few rotary wire wheels and mount them on arbors to fit your corded electric drill
   Use goggles and attack a section at a time using figure eight motions. Wipe off with an oily rag How does it look?

   I'll bet it wasn't really rusted that bad. Before you operate any of those neat machines, oil or grease any and all fittings so as not to damage bearings at start up.
   After a few hours of using the wire brushes, the 'whiskers' become dull on the wire brushes. Not to worry... Run the wheel in reverse while applying a piece of an old grinding wheel for a few minutes.

   When you use the new sharpened wheel,( in forward direction) you'll be amazed . Do as much as you can comfortably do each day and soon it will shine I've restored tons of old iron that way and it is not hard

   Vacuum up all dust and for hard to reach areas, use 'cup' wire wheels and even a few smaller ones such as made for Dremel type tools. If you want to wire brush individual small parts ie.. screws and fasteners, hold the small parts with a pair of ViseGrip pliers.

   I use a wood hand clamp jewelers use to polish rings and small items. (I believe it's called a ring clamp) Have fun with your bonanza Steinmetz.

   Consider how much you would have to pay for similar new equipment
   (which probably won't be of equal quality)

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/18/2005 10:23 pm ET by Steinmetz

4. 
   h12721 | Sep 19, 2005 05:48am | #5

   Finichcarp, 

   first get the machinery and then worry about the rust.  Use sandpaper first it may not be that bad.

   Hilmar

5. 
   EdHarrow | Sep 19, 2005 06:04am | #6

   It's junk.  Send it to me, freight prepaid, and I'll arrange for disposal. 

6. 
   jackiechan | Sep 19, 2005 06:24am | #7

   Take the tools - unless the rust has left the tool's surface looking like a lunar landscape, everything can be brought back to a beautiful useable condition.

   If you'd like to try electrolysis, which is an excellent non-chemical method of rust removal, let me know, and I'll talk you through it.  The process could cost you next to nothing to set up.

   Exhaust all rust removing options before even thinking of a machine shop surface re-grind.

   Let me know if you have questions.

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

1. 
   DSW | Sep 19, 2005 10:16pm | #8

   I bought a used Griz TS a couple years ago with rust on the table and got rid of it in short order via a tip I read about in FWW. Place a Scotchbrite pad on your random orbital sander and let her rip (dust mask and glasses recommended). Once the rust is removed, put a coat of wax down using a crumpled up piece of waxpaper. Works like a charm.

1. 
   gottlieb | Sep 19, 2005 10:30pm | #10

   Hey DSW,

    

   Thanks for the ScotchBrite tip. I've been wanting to spruce up my TS top, and that sounds like a fairly non-invasive straightforward way to do it. No chemicals, not too much elbow grease, I'll give it a try.

   Gottlieb

1. 
   Ricks503 | Sep 19, 2005 11:18pm | #11

   I do that , but on the last go, I spray some topcoat on the table top and then on the pad (renewing the pad every few min) - seems to make it last longer1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1

7. 
   Ricks503 | Sep 19, 2005 10:30pm | #9

   Any Rust on that equipment makes it unstable to use.

   I do some metal salvage on the side, I will pay for shipping and dispose of it for you.

    

    

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
8. 
   SVSander | Sep 19, 2005 11:55pm | #12

   I have used Naval Jelly to remove rust and it works pretty well. It is available at harware stores - at least that is where I have found it. It is a thick semi-liquid that you can spread on with a (cheap) paint brush. Let it set and soak according to instructions and it will do a pretty good job. I would finish up with the scotchbrite pad on a ROS and then your favorite anti-rust coating on top.

   Good luck,
   Richard Baker

9. 
   finishcarp | Sep 20, 2005 03:45am | #13

   Thanks for all your help.  For those who thought I might be interested in sending them this as scrap metal- kindly go outside and wait for it to arrive by FedEx...... should be there sometime soon    <G>

   First we get good- then we get fast !

1. 
   EdHarrow | Sep 21, 2005 12:01am | #16

   Hey, I been waiting!  Where are they?

1. 
   finishcarp | Sep 21, 2005 12:31am | #17

   Just keep an eye out..........First we get good- then we get fast !

10. 
    frenchy | Sep 20, 2005 07:58pm | #14

    finishcarp,

       grab your rANDOM ORBITAL SANDER, STICK A PIECE OF 220 ON IT AND GO TO WORK..   BY THE TIME YOU FINISH READING ALL OF THE POSTS HERE YOU'LL BE DONE AND IT WILL BE FINE.. yOU MIGHT WANT TO GREASE/ OIL THINGS A BIT BUT THAT SHOULDN'T TAKE YOU MUCH TIME..

     Opps sorry caps lock! 

11. 
    JohnGreenwood | Sep 20, 2005 10:01pm | #15

    I"m in the same situation, with the exception that its my equipment that sat in my antique cape blacksmith shop for 5 years while i fought up a hill building my barn/woodworking shop of my dreams.  So much for thinking that neighbors have no influence on what one does with ones property.

    Any mail order supply house - Woodcraft, etc. sells a product that both keeps machine surfaces well sealed, as well as removes rust from that surface with a lot of elbow grease.  The kit includes a scotch like pad, usually extra fine for the elbow grease.  You can do as i did, and use 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper to speed up that process and wear gloves to save the hands.

    You can use an orbital sander with the scotch pad to speed up the process, but i was concerned about circular marks in the surface, so i chose to do it by hand.  The same spray should then be added every so often to keep the surfaces 'waxed' and smooth for best working surface. 

    Good luck, and good rubbing.

     

    JG

12. 
    shopteacher | Sep 21, 2005 01:08am | #18

    I use my Black and Decker angle grinder with a twisted knot wire wheel.  The dust will fly and the wheel wears out so use dust and eye protection.