Hi everyone,
I was wondering if anybody tried ryoba (japanese double edge pull saw) There are two model in the lee valley catalogue and I was wondering if anybody tried them. Or if there are good alternative. At homedepot there was a marples one for about half the price (but the instruction are strange rip cut on one side and cross-cut on the other and they claim one if rougher jobs and the other for finishing jobs!!!!!).
Also, I noticed the marples one at a constant TPI compare to lee valley which had a gradient from 9 to 6 tpi accross the edge.
Any imput is welcome
Thanks
Claude
Replies
Claude,
Haven't used the Marples or the Lee Valley versions, but have used the Sharksaw brand ryoba; price is close to the LV traditional ryoba (around $40). Another good place to look, with a lot of variety: Japan Woodworker; they have three price points for their ryobas: $20 - $40 for the mass-market machine-made, about $90± for better-quality machine made, and $250± for hand-made.
The gradient tpi is more usual in genuine Japanese style saws, whereas the cheapie me-too copies tend to have a constant tpi count. The higher number of teeth at the handle end makes it a little easier to start the cut, especially if you have a large-toothed (say, less than 6 or 8 tpi) saw.
The Sharksaw is a decent saw for the money; no complaints. Cuts easily and smoothly; leaves a very smooth surface. You have to pay attention to keep the cut line straight and to keep the cut perpendicular to the face of the board. Mine has a tendency to go slightly off perpendicular during the last couple of inches of the cut; this is most likely my sawing technique needing improvement, rather than the fault of the saw.
It is very handy to have both cross cut and rip capability in one saw; cuts down on work bench clutter.
(I've also used another brand -- Z-Saw -- in dozuki [backsaws] and kataha [single edge bladed saws -- both cross-cut and rip]; also very good quality for the money [around $40±]. I'd expect that their ryoba would be of equal quality.)
<<(but the instruction are strange rip cut on one side and cross-cut on the other and they claim one if rougher jobs and the other for finishing jobs!!!!!).>>
LOL...Well...ok, but they seem to be missing the point that on Japanese saws, the rip and cross-cut teeth shapes are significantly different (even more so than on Western saws). So, yeah, as far as it goes, one (cross-cut) will give a smoother cut than the other (rip), but it really misses the point....
Anyway, my recommendation for a "first" ryoba would be to spend between $35 and $60 for a decent mass-market machine-made saw (Sharksaw and Z-Saw are two reputable brands), and play with it for a couple months, to see whether you like it or not. If you do, then, when it comes time to replace it, you could graduate to one of the more expensive/better-quality machine-made saws, or go for the full Monty and get a hand-made saw.
Hope this is of some use to you.
James
Edited 4/4/2006 6:12 pm by pzgren
Thanks,This helps a lot. I'll get one of the low end real japanese ryoba.
Helps to know the reason for TPI gradient.Claude
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled