I made the mistake of buying a Ryobi job site table saw before I started studying woodworking and discovered that it doesn’t have miter slide rails. The miter is a small table to the left of the blade that slides on it’s own. I cannot even use a sled on the #%$#*& thing. any suggestions out there, or am I just screwed.
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Replies
Sir,
I use to have a old Ryobi 3000? Not sure if the model number is correct. I think a 3000 with a slider on the side. I ran hundreds and hundreds of feet of cedar for house siding through it. Many of the boards were 15 feet long. I applied vertical siding.... I no longer have it but it was a WONDERFUL work horse for my needs at the time. I also used it for miters for all of the oak trim inside.
I used a QS Oak extension fence on the slider miter guage.
I sold it at half price after the house remodel was finished. Needed food for my new baby girl... Maybe I am thinging of another daughter?
I still remember it to this day and my daughter (My first one) is about 40 years old! I am not sure what year I got that saw....
To me.. It was far from junk, especially at the price I got it at at the time...
All I remember it was bit under powered but still a workhorse for what I used it for.
I've seen some pretty
I've seen some pretty phenomenal furniture that was built with one of those Ryobi saws, and our very own SargeGrinder47 used one for ages before he got whatever beastie he's using now. The most consistent gripe I've seen about them is that they don't hold their settings terribly well.
Perhaps Sarge will come along and help you out, I can drop him a line. There used to be a Ryobi users' forum where folks traded parts and strategies. Not sure if it's still around.
Fortest HI! Long time NO SEE...
The most consistent gripe I've seen about them is that they don't hold their settings terribly well.
The blade I got with it, I still have, and never sharpened....
It still works!
My old Ryobi Saw I never had to adjust. Maybe I got a good one?
I know that Ryobi used to produce good machines. I have an old AP-10 Planer which is still going. It seems that they have, in the last five or so years, cheapened everything up to target the box store customers.
I have had a BT3000 for about 10-12 years. It's not a precision saw but I have managed to learn how to use it to make good cuts. You can buy a miter track that can be attached between the sliding miter and the blade. Sears sells this saw under the Craftsman brand now and I think all the parts fit the old saws but I have NOT tried any of them. There was a seller of Ryobi BT3000 parts on ebay too but I've never bought from them.
I've been thinking about an upgrade for several years now but I'm waiting for my Ryobi to die. I keep feeding it big chunks of oak but it keeps on sawing.....
Good morning Bob.. Forest Girl dropped me an E and ask the cavalry to ride to the rescue. The Cavalry can't deny a damsel in distress... Now we can address your own distress with your saw. ha.. ha...
Looks like Swede alreay commented along with Will. I had a BT 3000 (the fore-runner of your saw most likely) for around 5 years. Bought it in a yard sale in pretty bad condition and did some heavy modifications to some excellent ideas that were already there.
I ran that saw through the paces sending over 40,000 linear feet through it. Most of that was under 1 1/2" as you have to understand the little saw that could has limitations as any machine. I currently run a 5 HP Industrial saw and it has limitations also. You just have to know what they are to work around them. Swede already mentioned getting the dual miter track. You can even add one on the right side of blade for that matter. Once you have a miter track you can run a sled.
Basically the saw can be made very accurate if you know how. That requires a bit of patience as you are not dealing with a robust cabinet saw with massive casting. Lot of aluminum in an excellent design but smaller casting means finicky generally and that expecially applies to the SMT or sliding miter table.
I am going to suggest you check out this web-site as it was once a Cult site just for owners of the original BT series saw and many of those guys are still using that saw and have been for many years. They are doing it sucessfully BTW. There is an FAQ page on that site that is extremely extensive and will cover about every aspect of the saw in major detail. If you understand at that point.. set up an account (doesn't cost anything) and post a thread there with specific questions. But.. I suggest you read the FAQ first and make it clear that you read it or you will get called to the carpet for not doing so. It's there to help you so read it. Then ask remaining questions if you don't understand.
Here ya go... http://www.bt3central.com
Ya'll have a good day, ya hear!
The old adage about getting what you pay for applies here. Those tools are good for a while and usually performs small jobs well for a time, but as time goes on you discover that you can buy those cheap tools several times or you can buy a really good tool once, and have quality parts support for repair.
It sounds like you want (need??) a sliding table for your saw. Unless you've got some strange requirements for your saw, it's not really needed. take the time to make your own sled that rides in the existing miter tracks. The sled will give you the same 'action' but with more reliable results. Or.... do a google search on 'The Dubby' sliding table. Many of us use one and love it.
SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)
I've owned and used lots of
I've owned and used lots of different job site table saws but not the Ryobi which is not my favorite brand. The performance of these portable little saws is directly proportional to the amount of fine tuning and maintenance given. Proper fence alignment, cleaning and light lubrication are needed often and occasionally one might need to shims and adjust the clearanceson therack and pinion height and angle adjustment apparati. The best tip I can suggest to improve the saw's performance on a 10" saw is to put a smooth cutting 8" blade on it. It gives you alot more torgue and less blade vibration
As far as the sled goes, if the sides of the table are clear you could make a sled with two battens underneath which hug the table sides.
I've done this and it works reasonably well.
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