Replies

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 08, 2007 03:55pm | #1

   John Iconomaki should be jealous. Great work.

   Frosty

   "I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

2. 
   Spalted | Sep 08, 2007 06:56pm | #2

   that looks like a sweet project. You can be proud of making that tool yourself...I know your great grandchildren will be!

3. 
   Buttkickski | Sep 08, 2007 06:58pm | #3

   Nicely done.

    

   "I never met a man who didn't owe somebody something."

4. 
   douglas2cats | Sep 08, 2007 07:51pm | #4

   Much as I like my BCTW one, your's is way prettier.

   If you build it he will come.

5. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Sep 10, 2007 04:22am | #5

   Another GREAT from downunder!  You must tell us what you hone your mind with.

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/9/2007 9:23 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres

6. 
   jjjjj | Sep 10, 2007 05:04am | #6

   Derek,
   That's really outstanding. I wonder if you would describe your method of construction, especially how you fastened the wear strips and centered the hinge pin.
   Regards, John

1. 
   derekcohen | Sep 10, 2007 06:07pm | #12

   Hi John

   Method of construction?

   The overall dimension is 2" x3" on the inside, and 3/8" thick.

   It was quite time consuming to build because of the need for absolute precision. It is not a useful tool if you are even very slightly off square. So you begin with a very, very tight joint, drill it out (on a drill press with the parts clamed to a fence to maintain its square), then tweek the sides to make sure it is square in all directions as it is moved. Attaching the brass - I cut to size, then epoxied on the brass sides. Then drilled this for the steel rod - careful now, the heat generated can soften the epoxy and the sides will lift off (DAMHIK). The rods go in about 1/2". The fit is very tight so a combination of epoxy and friction hold them together. Note that the pivot rod extends all the way across. Once done, the brass was ground flush on my belt sander.Easy peazy View Image

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   jjjjj | Sep 12, 2007 05:25am | #13

   Hi Derek,
   Thanks for tip about the epoxy. I did not know it was that heat sensitive.
   Why did you choose steel pins to fasten the brass? I have a Bridge city square, and a couple of the pins have worked themselves proud, as is known to happen. I need to sand them back down. What about brass wood screws, countersunk & sanded flush?
   Also, what do you think about the joint in the Bridge city tool which allows a continuous knife line to be made across the corner, with no gaps? How would that be done? I really like the look and dimensions of what you made. Thanks. John

7. 
   ThreePuttJoe | Sep 10, 2007 06:25am | #7

   Great job. Please tell me you've canceled your order from Bridge City. I'd rather order mine from you.

8. 
   noviceneil | Sep 10, 2007 03:26pm | #8

   Derek,

    a beautiful tool for sure...seriously, would you consider making and selling them for your "fans"?

   Regards from Peru (Indiana)

   Neil

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Sep 10, 2007 04:23pm | #9

   I have a confession to make.

   I emailed derek suggesting/asking if it would be a good idea to make one side of the saddle a dovetail layout guage.  I'm not sure if this is a good idea or not and should have shared it with everyone.

   Realizing that there are two potential angles for the DT part, i.e. 1:6 & 1:8 perhaps brings up an interesting question.  But I almost exclusively make DTs in hardwood so the 1:6 arrangement would work for me.  Or is it 1:8? 

   Oh my, I'll have to get back to you later!

   There I feel better now.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   derekcohen | Sep 10, 2007 04:46pm | #11

   Hi Bob

   I was about to email you back. Thanks for the idea. The thing is that a dovetail marker really should be fixed, not a flexible saddle - because every dovetail you cut should be done on material that is square (even minor out-of-square dimensions multiply errors).

   The dovetail marker, another saddle, that I use is one from Woodjoy:

   http://www.woodjoytools.com/

   View Image

   They do have, however, the type of dovetail saddle square you want (but do not have the square one I want):

   View Image

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

2. 
   derekcohen | Sep 10, 2007 04:28pm | #10

   Hi Neil

   Thanks, but if you only knew how I fretted over every chisel stroke you would not be so complimentary!

   I am sure that the construction time can only reduce with familiarity. Let me have a go this weekend and I will let you know if I plan to make more.

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

9. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 12, 2007 11:13pm | #14

   Really NICE! AND a great project to think of!

   Gee, is it OK if I copy your design?

1. 
   derekcohen | Sep 13, 2007 05:11am | #15

   Will

   Sure ... with pleasure ... I don't claim originality (is there such a thing!).

   The condition is that you post your work here!

   I plan to make a few more this weekend and try to improve on the design.

   Regards from Perth

   Derek