I am embarking on creating wood toys for toddler-age children. Having heard the wonders and non-toxicity of Shellac, I’ve sprayed two coats of Zinzer Shellac, sanding and buffing between coats. (I’ve herd that Zinzer probably contains wax.)
Now, for the final finish, I’m considering:
1. Simply using 3-4 cts. of Minwax paste wax. However, toddlers wet diapers may kill the wax very quickly.
2. Spray on some sort of polyurethane – but what brand/type is safe for young children who have been known to chew on these toys… ? How would I de-wax the existing shellac?
3, In the future, would another brand/type of sealer eliminate the wax problem but give similar benefits as Shellac?
Replies
Most Zinsser shellac (Amber and Clear) retains its natural wax. But, you can buy canned shellac that has been dewaxed. It's call Seal Coat. No reason that you can't use shellac as your top coat.
Not much point in applying paste wax--it doesn't protect to any meaningful extent. Even less point in making three or four applications. You won't end up with more shellac on the wood than if you apply 1 (or 2 to assure you haven't missed spots) because each new coat essentially redissolves the lower coats and it all buffs down to about the same thickness.
All clear finishes are safe when fully cured, a process which might take a month for oil based varnishes.
If you do want to apply a varnish top coat for increased protection, you can do it, even over shellac that still contains its wax. It just can't contain polyurethane. But traditional resin varnishes are still around, and are plenty tough. For the toughest varnishes, chose one with a phenolic resin. I know two such varieties. Behlen Rockhard which is phenolic resin modifying linseed oil to make the varnish. Waterlox varnishes (Satin, Original/Sealer, and Gloss) are phenolic modifying tung oil. Either would adhere to the shellac you have applied.
But, if you are going to want a varnish finish on the toys, best just start with varnish. Thin the first coat of brushing varnish to make it easier to sand before the next coat, and then a couple of additional coats and you are done.
What Steve said last. If it's gonna be a varnish finish, just do it at the beginning.Gretchen
Steve:
Your answer is just what I was looking for. Thanks a lot!
Are you making these toys for sale or in large quantities for give-aways? If so, you will have to conform to the new children toys safety standards. It requires that the toys be certified. Google "Child toys safety and certification".
I believe that requirement is now on hold (for this year), and quite possibly will be modified in the interim to make it less onerous for small toy makers.
http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PREREL/prhtml09/09115.html
Depending on the wood you are using, you may want to look at JUST a coat or two of mineral oil. Yea, the same stuff as 'baby oil' without the perfumes in it. If it's safe enough to rub on a baby, it's safe enough for the baby toys. I usually saturate a small rag and wipe on a fairly heavy coat. Let it stand for 10 minutes to soak in and then wipe off the excess. A lighter second coat is applied and then buffed off with a rag until it feels dry.
SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)
It might work, in your use, but just so you know, baby oil is recommended to NOT be around a baby's changing table any more. There are reported deaths of children who had baby oil "spilled" in some way near the baby, and the oil inhaled. It coated the lungs and caused death.Gretchen
Thanks for that info on baby oil. The report you cite is an oil spill which is a relatively large quantity, and I can't argue about that. You really wouldn't be giving wooden toys to children that young.
SawdustSteve
I know--and was not talking about the finish really. I have only found out this danger in the past several years--with grandchildren. Babies reach for things on their diaper table --it's a danger.Gretchen
b,
General Finishes sells "Salad Bowl Finish" which says on the label that it is food safe. I called the company and the guy I talked to said that their ArmRSeal is the exact same stuff, just thicker, and is just as safe. I asked why they didn't advertise it as Food Safe. He said because it costs money to go through the tests to be able to say that, and the company didn't feel it was worth it.
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
Not only Arm R Seal, but all the clear finishes, sold to consumers in the US, are similarly food safe. Marketing the Salad Bowl that way, is just that--marketing.
Steve,
Thanks for letting me know. I knew what you had said that they are all safe after they cure. I also got the idea from the man at General Finishes that it is a marketing thing. Kind of like putting a sign on a can of tuna that says, "Guaranteed not to turn blue in the can."
MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot.
And then again there is just unfinished toys.. ...what is a SAFE wood to use for that!
I have one China baby that get sick with Oak and Maple. Walnut she can stand.. We had doctor test for reactions. Maple came back unknown but she sure loves Maple sugar on her pancakes!
I've always wondered about adding a finish coat of strained broccoli (or, Brussel sprout) juice, just to teach kids not to put toys in their mouths. ;-)
Best post in the thread.... still laughing.
Do not use polyurethane?
Steve, you said to not use polyurethane - do you mean not at all or not over the shellac?
Also, you recommended Behlen Rockhard, but is that not a urethane?
Thanks.
Do not use polyurethane?
Steve, you said to not use polyurethane - do you mean not at all or not over the shellac?
Also, you recommended Behlen Rockhard, but is that not a urethane?
Thanks.
polyurethane?
Steve, you said to not use polyurethane - do you mean not at all or not over the shellac?
Also, you recommended Behlen Rockhard, but is that not a urethane?
Thanks.
polyurethane?
Steve, you said to not use polyurethane - do you mean not at all or not over the shellac?
Also, you recommended Behlen Rockhard, but is that not a urethane?
Thanks.
double zombie thread
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