The past few weeks I have read some things that I can not really belive people are using for push sticks- Ice Picks you gota be kidding me right? Why would you ever want to use an Ice Pick, might as well use a Big Bowie Knife for a Push Stick.
Ice Picks Are Not Safe For Push Sticks
I thought it would help to see what push sticks people use that work and that are safe – I don’t care what you are cutting you can make a SAFE push stick to cut small stuff.
Post a pic. share your ideas save a few fingers
This is the stick I like it – will hold down the stock and keeps your hand out of the blade- The handle sticks above the fence – you could glue a strip of sand paper to the bottom but I don’t because I cut smaller than the width of the stick sometimes
Ron
Replies
Ron,
Sure they are.
Tens of thousands of woodworkers, probably more professionals than amateurs, have used ice picks for pushing stock through table saws for about as long as table saws have existed. A long time ago, when I first read about using an ice pick in Fine Woodworking, I was highly skeptical, but after trying it out, I was a convert. Now I consider it one of best and safest ways to protect myself when ripping small stock.
As with any tool and technique, their use requires intelligence and focus, but an ice pick, properly used, gives superb control when ripping small or narrow pieces of stock. Just by coincidence, there's a new post on the discussion entitled "Table Saw Safety", entry #52 and also #58, that gives a short but clear summary of the virtues of using an ice pick as a push stick.
In my own shop, instead of an ice pick, I use a 6 inch long Stanley awl with an egg shaped handle, I feel that it gives better control. I use the awl so often that I have a wood block with a hole in it screwed to the back of my rip fence to keep the awl handy.
John W.
Edited 8/11/2003 9:24:48 AM ET by JohnW
Edited 8/11/2003 3:34:38 PM ET by JohnW
Edited 8/11/2003 4:02:52 PM ET by JohnW
Friends,
I'd just clarify that my ice-pick pushing is not based on 1 ice-pick but on (2) ice-picks: one on the left hand and the other on the right hand.
I posted about this difference a few years ago on this forum, as a variation of a very old FWW article on "methods of work".
On that article, the use is to use (1) ice-pick to push and cut through small, slender pieces, which for small pieces is fine.
But with (2) ice-picks instead of just one, the functionality of the idea expands because one actually has two points of hold-down which discourages rotation of the work-piece.
A push-stick usually has a right-angle notch or heel so that that heel grabs the work-piece from the back. It would not be very proper to use (2) such push-sticks as there is only one tail end to the stock where the notch can grab. So some people use use a second stick with a nail on the tip, or a sharp screw, or sand-paper, or perhaps a piece of rubber on the tip, because holding and pushing a piece of wood requires actually 2-point contact.
Initially, I tried one ice-pick but then I realized that 2 point contact is bettter, so I grabed for an awl and verified that 2-point control was better. However, I soon realized that it'd be more advantageous to use (2) ice-picks rather than (1) ice-pick and the awl. Since I only owned one ice-pick I had to go and buy another one. The awl I had was too short and its stem was too fat compared to the ice-pick.
With a notch-type push-stick, one is limitted to grabbing the work-piece only at the tail-end, which forces one to try to control the board from wherever that tail is, depending on the lenght of the piece. With (2) ice-picks, one CHOOSES the contact points to suit what one feels is the best place to balance the forces involved.
With push-sticks, one is kind of limitted to only a straight-forward push because the heel would not allow much side-wise push because there is nothing to prevent the push-stick from moving side-wise at the tail of the piece: only the heel opposes a straight-forward motion. With icepicks, it is much easier to direct the force forward and towards the fence, which is away from the spinning blade. Always make sure that the force exerted would no-way lead one's fists over the line of the blade. So, the blade's got to be just a tooth height above the work-piece, and one's fists with the ice-picks would be much, much more above that (easily 5 or 6 inches higher). I've learned to relocate the ice-picks to adjust for the amount fed so that most of the time the ice-picks are not in side-wise proximity to the blade. That is also an important point. Often no relocation is required, and at the most only one relocation may be needed. This feature greatly allows for more safety on pushing since it avoids the unconfortability of pushing fromonly a fixed point. This is similar to when one pushes using the hands: one keeps shifting them as the board advances.
With push-sticks one is needed to keep the angle of the push stick as designed. So as one pushes the board further, one has to lower the arms. With ice-picks that effect is less notorious. In fact, one wants to keep the sticks the less inclined the better, as they pinch more when less inclined, which means arms higher and safer.
Any how, the one more significant thing to point out here is the use of (2) ice-picks, not just one.
-mbl-
Ok- but I can do the same thing with a push stick like in the photo and hold it against the fence.
You know with the stick I use - when you push the stock through the saw it holds down the stock to the table and hooks the back .
I don't let it pull away from the fence .
I don't recommend this to anyone but I shove 3/4 hardwood through a unisaw with a ripping blade with this type of stick and hog the motor down doing it .
All I'm saying I don't care who you are and how long you have used a saw accidents will happen .
Ice Picks and Saws are not for me
Who Ever Has The Biggest Pile Of Tools When You Die Wins
"I don't recommend this to anyone but I shove 3/4 hardwood through a unisaw with a ripping blade with this type of stick and hog the motor down doing it . " -Ron-
...
Dear Ron,
Would say that the applied philosophy seems a little strange, but the advice is darn good.
Best wishes.
-mbl-
Ron
What are you using as proof for your statement about ice picks? I believe it is only your opinion and you will have trouble coming up with any documentation to back it up. Many proffesionals (pattern makers in particular) have been using them for years because they give you so much control. Try one, you might be suprised.
The Professional Termite
Ice Picks as push sticks seem dangerous to me, but I take your word that they work for you.
I don't think I will be trying ice picks anytime soon however. I would get fairly nervous about them. Too short, hands too close to the blade, metal near a spinning blade. Yipes!
I am a feather board and hold down kinda guy. Use both and you accomplish the two things that those ice picks that are near and dear to your heart accomplish: (1) Holds down the wood to the table, and stock can not under any circumstances rise up; and (2) Holds stock against the fence.
And, I might add, you fingers are nowhere near that blade.
I'm not trying to convince anyone, and the point is that something in the way of pushsticks, feather boards and hold downs are better than nothing. I for one am glad you guys are using those ice picks. Hope it saves a finger or two. I'll stick to my hold downs and feather boards.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
The problem with push boards is that you need different sizes and shapes for different work. And when you don't have the right one at hand, that's when you improvise and cut your fingers off.
Been using a pick for at least 25 years after reading about it in a 1976 FWW article. Never had the slightest problem. All the cut off fingers detailed in this forum over the years would seem to indicate that it is push sticks that aren't safe.
Whatever you use, may your fingers remain attached.
I read this and the other topic with interest. I won't argue with you - if it works for you and its safe for you, more power to you. I just remember somewhere being taught that anything you use for a push stick or push shoe has the potential to become a missle. I spent many hours of the course of many years rounding over all the edges on my pushsticks because of being taught this. It would be too late to change habit patterns now.
If I'm trying to rip something that's so narrow that I've got to use an ice pick or scratch awl to get between the fence and the blade - I'm moving over to the bandsaw for that one!
Have a good day.
Ed
"Tractors are for work, not play." Mississippi State University Extensions Service
To all Ice Pickers
What are you using as proof for your statement about ice picks? How about common scene for my statement . And that I spend more time on a table saw than I bet most here do. I have worked in Cabinet shops for 20 yrs. and still have all my fingers.
Go for it! I will not ever use one - I don't care who uses one or how many times they did.
I can use my push stick and cut anything you can and it wont be sticking in my gut when it gets in the blade.
RonWho Ever Has The Biggest Pile Of Tools When You Die Wins
This is a simple push stick made of scrap
Here is a simple push stick made out of plywood. Sometimes I make it a little higher for more distance from the blade. It is very stable and comfortable to hold. Both attachments are the same. I can't find out how to delete the other one
Sorry , the photo that I used is not compatable with this server. Old software, Old computer. The push stick is just a 8" x 5" x1/2" piece of plywood with a 6"x1/2" notch on the bottom to catch the piece. I round the back for comfort. Since a push stick gets shredded often enough this one is easy to replace. For all you that hate to use plywood on your nice blade then use hardwood. We may be slow, But we're expensive.
This is a style I like to use.
Myci, Your design is the one I've used for years. I like the comfort and safety of the rounded back corner. Also I feel I could let it go in an emergency easier than one where my fingers are folded inside a handle.
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