I need to rip a lot of oak into 1/4 inch square strips to do a bent lamination. How do I do this safely?
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Replies
So they are only 1/4" high, right? How long are they? A featherboard and a push-block is the way I'd go, but I think we need to know the length of the stock you're dealing with. For something where the blade is set that low, I'd be tempted to use a thick pushblock that can ride over the blade, but there will be those who disagree with that approach.
The GRR-ripper <click> is well-suited to such a project. I have a friend who uses one for all his projects, has been very pleased with it's design.
Jamie,I, for one, agree. I do this all the time.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com and now http://www.flairwoodworks.com)
- Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
I agree,
Blade barely above stock.
Long push block sufficient to ride over blade
Zero clearance table saw insert
Somewhere here there is a very good video or article by Steve Latta on ripping narrow stock that shows this very well.
Found it! (That almost never happens when I'm looking for something...)
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/subscription/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=5221
Take your time and you'll be fine.
Frank
Jointer, Bandsaw (1mm oversize,) Thicknesser???
Cheers,
eddie
I use this jig:
View Image
I rip even smaller. I have a friend who does pool table repair and he comes by and needs 3/16" square strips for the rails. I plane down to 3/16" and use a pair of the grippr's and walk them through like nothings happening (zero clearance insert). whip em out easy. I have the micro jig splitter and they will slide right across and allow you to have downward pressure on both pieces as it passes through the blade. No kickback.
The nine most terrifying words in the English language are, 'I'm from the government and I'm here to help.' - Renaldus Magnus
+ 1 for the Grrrippers. Not only are they safe, they also give a very clean edge to the cut. It's a pain trying to remove saw marks from skinny stock.
Jim
I make a Fixture/Jig? to clamp the ends of the BIG stick.. I cut one to size.. Blow off any sawdust and fit the NEW cut-off behind the 'Big Stick'. Fitting errors are collective! I drum sand all made to final thickess..
Just me though.. I do run into problems but I think the human eye can pick out a really bad 'next cut' to avoid!
I make a lot of 1/4" X 1/4" stock from various hardwoods to use for square pegs for A&C-type joinery. Here's how I do it:
I start with a 3/4" thick piece of stock of whatever length I need, plus a bit so I can trim the ends later. (The ends sometimes end up a bit thin if the wood doesn't go perfectly straight through the blade at the end of the rip.) 1" X 4" or 1" X 6" works well.
I set the fence 1/4" from the blade, set the blade just over 1/4" above the table, and run the stock through on edge twice - once with each face against the fence. Then, without changing either the fence or the blade height, flip the board on it's side and rip off the bottom piece of "peg stock". Flip the board and rip off the remaining piece of "peg stock". Repeat as needed.
Using this method, you always have a pretty hefty piece of wood which reduces blade chatter you get if you try to cut smaller stock, the blade is always burried in the wood, and it's only exposed 1/4". The only thing you have to look out for is the 1/4" X 1/4" piece wants to shoot back at you once it's cut free, so use a push block to keep it honest.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
Edited 6/28/2009 12:09 pm ET by MikeHennessy
Drose ,
When you say "a lot" do you mean 20 or 30 feet , or 60 -200 feet or maybe miles .
Personally my stock is almost always 8 - 10' lengths , I would rip rough to just under 3/8" X 3/8" then run them through the planer to final size .
It's hard to pull or push a 1/4" strip the added thickness for me feels better.
be safe regards dusty
Thanks, all. I keep forgetting the length and breadth of experience on this forum and am always impressed when I return.
I clamp a block ahead of the blade 1/4" to the left of the blade, My fence is to the right of the blade. I start with a 4or 5 inch wide board that has two parallel edges. I then move the board to it touches the clamped board and then move the fence to the other edge of the board and feed the board through. Then repeat this process until you have used up the wide board. This way the 1/4 inch strip is not pinched between the fence and blade.
I like that idea.
A variation on the idea of a left-side stop block is to make a jig with a slightly-protruding bearing to set the left-side cut depth. That way, the stock moves freely past it, rather than potentially having friction.If you want to get fancy, the jig can even be made to clamp into the left miter track.
Edited 6/29/2009 12:34 pm by RalphBarker
"I keep forgetting the length and breadth of experience on this forum...
Speaking of length and breadth, how long is your stock?
" ...and am always impressed when I return."
Don't go away, then you'll always be impressed. ;-)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
the stock is five feet long and I am married to a pregnant woman, a father , a full time carpenter and going to school for engineering. My absences from woodworking and this fine forum are not self imposed.
Sounds like you are beyond busy, wow! Wasn't giving you a hard time, just pointing out the welcome mat. Glad this thread has given you the info you needed, best of luck in all your efforts!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Everyone seems to be presuming that you don't have a band saw. If you do have one that is the tool to use. Rip the pieces oversize and then run them through a thickness planer to get to the final dimensions.
John White
Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998-2007
drose: I use the rockler thin ripping jig in my tablesaw. safe, accurate, and inexpensive. check it out. pmm
You might try using one of these.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18056&filter=table%20saw%20jig
ASK
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