Replies

1. 
   oldhand | Feb 26, 2010 08:19pm | #1

   I never use a jointer to rabbet, for me  there are better ways to accomplish the task for my needs, mainly the table saw or router. 

2. 
   hammer1 | Feb 26, 2010 11:31pm | #2

   When you rabbet with a jointer, you have to remove the blade guard. Unless you set the blades evenly on the end, you measure from the farthest tip and set the fence. It's important that your stock is nice and flat and straight. You can take a fairly large bite, depending on the species. Unlike flattening and straightening on the jointer, you keep pressure on both tables, same as you would for a sizing cut. You also need pressure to stay against the fence, the fence must be parallel with the rabbeting ledge.

   The danger is dull blades, hands/fingers where they don't belong, use push pads, too fast a feed and the fact there is no guard. When you are done, replace the guard immediately. Have firm control at the start and hands away from the end just in case the board kicks back. You can get a jointer quality cut with this method but set up and stock prep are key to maintaining accuracy.  If the rabbet shows, like a passage door jamb, it might be my choice. For 99% of my rabbet work, I use other methods.

1. 
   vance | Feb 27, 2010 09:50am | #3

   Hammer, thanks for the reply. So I move the fence all of the way over to the edge of the table closest to the rabbiting tip on the Byrd head. (measuring for rabbit on board of course)

   Then with the board on it's edge, it's slid along the fence and as it cuts the board drops into lower into the rabbiting metal ledge on the jointer? 

   I assume that this is done in a few passes to create the rabbit and the maximum width of the the rabbit on the board is only as wide as the height (or drop to the metal ledge) of  the metal shelf below the cut will allow?

   Vance

1. 
   Davo304 | Feb 28, 2010 12:28am | #4

   Actually, you can run your board face side down on your jointer rather than on edge and rabbet it that way.  But, it's much faster and safer to cut rabbets using either a table saw or a router. 

   For quick rabbets, I use my table saw...without using a dado blade. Run the stock's first pass on edge, then the final pass with the stock face down.  If I want a "prettY" looking rabbet, it's hard to beat a router table set-up.  Just my 2 cents.

   Davo

2. 
   hammer1 | Feb 28, 2010 09:46am | #6

   You typically run the board flat ways, not on edge but that is possible with thick pieces. The rabbetting ledge is just a cutout in the outfeed table so the board can move along when the rabbet is cut. It does restrict the maximum depth of cut, about 9/16" on my jointer. The "shelf" that the blade guard is mounted on provides support for the work. It isn't large, so you concentrate on staying flat to that. It's part of the infeed table and moves with it as you set the depth of cut. Watch out for tipping at the end of the cut.

   It always helps in answering a question if you are specific about what you are trying to do. I have done passage door jambs, 2" x 6" with a 1 3/4" x 3/8" deep rabbet in a single pass. I'm not familiar with your brand of jointer or the Byrd head. I don't know if the Byrd has a clean cutting edge. I just ran a small sample to give you a picture. The end of my knives need a little attention if I was to rabbet with them, so the cut is clean. I'm burning a little. I prefer to make the cut in one pass whenever possible.

   
1. 
   vance | Feb 28, 2010 11:24am | #7

   Mr. Hammer, ( yes Mr. for the time you took taking your pictures and posting them for me to see )

   Thank you for taking the time to make the test cuts for me to actually see how this is done. I usually use a table saw or router to cut rabbits but I was interested in understanding how this was done on my Jointer. ( General model 480 -1 )

   I don't have project in mine on what I might use this rabbiting feature for yet but wanted to understand how to do this safely when I experiment with this feature to my tool. ( this process should produce a very clean cut)

   The Byrd cutting head has a Rabbiting tip for using the Jointer in this manner. With this type of cutting head installed, my Jointer runs like a Caddie and makes this machine just purr!

   Thank you and everyone else for taking the time for helping me out to understand how to do this process.

   The people in this forum are so kind to always help me when I post a problem I am having!!!!

   Vance

3. 
   bones | Feb 28, 2010 09:20am | #5

   Well, this is just my opinion but I would much rather use a router or even a Table saw.  My reason is mainly support.  I have a jointer and it has that capability but the support is milimal under the piece and second you have to make sure you apply purfect downward pressure over the cutter head to make sure the depth of cut.  Now don't get me wrong you still need to do that with the table saw, but the area undertheath is more even and easier to acomplish.  My first choice is the router.  I think it cuts smoothest and I get to use old fashion gravity to help me.  There are many ways to skin a cat and I'm sure others will disagree but for me the above works best.  Have a good one!