I have a rectangular oak dining room table with legs at the corners. The table is about 65″L x 48″W plus two 16″ leaves. Because the table sagged considerably in the middle in the long direction (between the two halves), I replaced the original (junk) extension slides with high quality maple slides. Now it doesn’t sag without leaves or with only one leaf inserted; however, when both leaves are inserted in the table, the leaves sag in the middle (the low point being the seam between the leaves). The sag, I guess, would ensure that all spilled milk ran to the middle of the table simplifying clean up, but the table sure is unsightly with both leaves in. What is the typical (best) way to fix this problem? I’m sure you folks have the answers. Thanks for your help.
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Replies
how about longer extension slides? so they are not at their limit with both leaves in place -
The longer the slides the less they will sag when extended. I have never found commercial slides that I liked, so I make my own and the run the full length of the table for support.
I switched to commercially available metal extension slides several years ago. They are pre stressed to handle possible sags. Wood slides (3 part) are somewhat limited, usually I've found to around 72"+/-. Have used metal slides up to 10' four leg tables with good results and have had no complaints. I believe they're made to handle even bigger tables.
Good luck
Sagging Antique Dining Table
I'm looking to find the best way to straighten a 120" Antique Dining Table Top with no leaves. See the photo below. The top looks like Walnut Burl veneer with inlays. The sides and legs look to be hand carved mahogany. There is about a 1 1/4" sag over the length and a 5/8 sag side to side. I was thinking of using a couple steel ribs, a post in the center, and a few other options. What method would be best? Where are the needed materials found?
Thanks!
Dave
Table
The lidded vase isn't to heavy ? just checking ! If you are not opening and closing the table for leaves than a strut - plank - or brace on both sides almost the whole lenght underneath and securly attached should do the trick. However I don't think anything will much help the side to side sag.
SA
Wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity - steel does not so that has to be designed into the fix and to be honest it seems strange to use steel over wood for the fix. It's also quite easy to crack the existing wood by taking all the bow out of it all at once so that has to taken into account as well. Wood expands and contracts primarily across grain and the table will have been built to allow for it, so any new structure has to compliment that or you'll get cracks that make the "fix" worse than the original problem.
You have a lot of reading and planning to do this correctly - this is one of those situations where it seems easy on the surface, but to do it correctly is much more involved. At the very least you'd want to take detailed pictures of the construction underneith and get some experienced opinions about how to proceed.
If it were me the first thing I'd do is flip the table over on a flat surface and put some pressure on the bowed sections to see how stiff the aprons are and how much work it's going to be to flatten things out.
Best of luck - what you're doing is one of the most difficult tasks there is to do well.
Sagging Cabriolet Table
I just came upon this and don't know if you are even still on here. I am an antiques restorationist here in Memphis. I have an 8' cherry cabriolet table with a pretty significant sag. After one flips it over and applies pressure, what in the world do you do next?
Sincerely,
Jess
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