Replies

1. 
   HoustonHeights | Dec 07, 2006 01:23am | #1

   I'd use a spar varnish -- it is specifically designed for use on boats.  Man o war makes a good one.

1. 
   tom77 | Dec 09, 2006 06:27am | #7

   Thanks for your suggestion.  Have you had any experiences with this brand?

1. 
   peter28 | Dec 11, 2006 04:53pm | #8

   Tom,

   For what it's worth; I've used McCloskey Man o War quite a bit with good success.

   Peter

1. 
   tom77 | Dec 11, 2006 05:29pm | #9

   Thanks, Peter.  I think I will use one your first two recommended brands.  I found sources for both on the internet.

   Thanks and best regards, Tom.

2. 
   peter28 | Dec 07, 2006 04:58am | #2

   Tom,

   Sounds like an interesting piece.

   I would recommend Epiphanes or Interlux marine (spar) varnish for your table They are two of the better varnishes out there.

   Be sure and do the underside of the table also. You want the finish to fully envelop the wood.

   You'll also want to do about six coats. Lightly sand between coats and clean the dust off.

   Believe it or not, I use foam brushes to apply my varnishes. If you use one, don't press it down into the varnish or you will load it (the varnish) with air bubbles. Just dip the first half inch in and draw it out. As with EVERY aspect of finishing, you'll get strong arguments both pro and con on this technique. I'm just telling you what works for me. Once the brush becomes fully charged it is very easy to flow across the surface. You never have a brush mark and you can't beat the price.

   For a game board you will want a blemish free surface. Let the table cure for at least a month (or more) and then lightly rub the surface down. This can be done using something as fine as 1000 grit wetdry sandpaper and a little water. Follow this with some 0000 steel wool, Liberon would be my first choice, and lastly apply a light coat of wax and the game pieces will glide nicely on the surface. Make sure the wax you use has a high melting point for use in the tropics.

   Also be aware of the amber tone of this finish.

   Good luck and have fun sailing.

   Peter Gedrys

    

    

1. 
   tom77 | Dec 07, 2006 05:05pm | #3

   Dear Peter,

   Thanks for your thorough answer.  I will look for those brands.  Also, do you have any experience with Helmsman varnish from Minwax?  Local makers of split  bamboo fly rods use this with reported good success.

   I have used the foam brush technique for applying varnish and had good results.  You have to be careful on overlap to avoid missing strips, especially on big surfaces where it is difficult to get good overall lighting.

   You emphasized "lightly rubbing down" after six weeks.  Is it difficult to level and rub out these finishes because of their flexibility?

   Thanks again for your generous help.  By the way, I probably won't get to sail.  The boat is a chartered catamaran, 47 feet long, sleeping 8, and is beyond my budget.

   Best regards, Tom.

1. 
   peter28 | Dec 08, 2006 04:55pm | #6

   Tom,

   I'm not a big fan of Helmsman. I feel there are far better varnishes to be had. There is always the availability issue also.

   Concerning rubbing;

   It is intended here to just refine the surface as required. If I am doing six coats, after the fifth, I'll let it set for a few days, then flatten this coat well. I use the WIT method (whatever it takes). You can wet sand with very fine paper and water( with a drop or two of dish soap for lubricant) You can also use Abralon pads. If you've never used these, try them. They are a micro mesh abrasive on a  round six inch pad with a hook and loop back. If you have an orbital sander, dampen the pad and surface, make a couple of passes and the surface is flat. They are available form 180 to 4000 grit. You can also use them by hand. A light rubbing with a grey scotch pad to get to any small left over valleys, and a good cleaning and I'm ready for my last coat

   Lay your last coat on carefully and the varnish will flow and level very nicely. As stated in the previous post, I do this on mahogany entrance ways with wonderful results. I had a cabinet maker stop in my shop one day after completing a door with this schedule. He kept running his hands over it with a smile on his face. He thought I sprayed it.

   You can use the Abralon and scotch pad on the final coat as needed. Just let the varnish cure for a while and use a light touch.

   Let me know how you do.

   Peter 

    

    

    

    

    

    

2. 
   JKabak | Dec 08, 2006 04:07am | #4

   This is a fine point but never never never never use steel wool on anything intended to go to sea.  In the marine trades we use either bronze wool or more recently scotbrite pads.  If you use steel wool the microscopic fibers in the wool will eventually bleed through and rust.

   On a second note, standard number  of coats for the islands is ten coats minimum.  Any high quality spar varnish will do. 

   Fair winds,

   Jonathan

    

    

    

1. 
   peter28 | Dec 08, 2006 04:23pm | #5

   Jonathan,

   Good point about the steel wool. However, it wasn't between coats which I would never recommend for any finish, only on the cured topcoat. There would be no chance of bleed through after cleaning. But an ounce of prevention is always worth while so the bronze wool sounds superior here.

   The other option for rubbing the topcoat is an abralon pad. If you've never used one try them out.They range in grit from 180 to 4000. Follow this rubbing with a scotch pad and you'll have a beautiful surface.

   I do this for a lot of large mahogany entrance ways. While I don't have the salt and intense sun to deal with, I do have temperature ranges from mid nineties to the low teens. The varnishes I stated take this fluctuation far better than most. Do you have any particular brands you are partial to?

   Concerning the ten coat rule "When in Rome...."

   Thanks for the input,

   Peter gedrys