Replies

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 05, 2004 03:45am | #1

   Don't know a thing, and have never tried it..........

   However, I read a piece about Mr. Maloof -- maybe 20 years ago -- in which he discussed his work, and the lustrous finish on his wonderful rockers.

   He revealed the formula and I have used it continuously since then. And, it is terrific.

   I assume this is the basic concoction that is now marketed under his name. although he never made mention of adding beeswax to the mix.

   If you're interested, reply here, and I'll post it. I would not be surprised if this has been covered in some past thread, so you might want to do a search first to see what turns up.

1. 
   GaryM | Jun 05, 2004 04:13am | #2

   I am interesed, What does Sam M, put in his finish??

   Gary

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 05, 2004 04:49am | #3

   THE SAM MALOOF FINISH:

   Taken from a magazine article from 15-20 years ago (source not noted)

   Mix the following in three equal parts, adding enough paint thinner to the mix to make it easy to wipe:

   1) Raw, pure Tung Oil (not a so-called "tung oil finish')

   2) Boiled Linseed Oil

   3) Alkyd Varnish (not polyurethane)

   NOTES: Raw, undiluted tung oil is not easy to come by. But the last time I checked, Woodcraft still carried it in gallons (about $40). this stuff is really thick and viscous (like heavy motor oil). Note that products called "Tung Oil Finish" usually have only trace amounts of real tung oil.

   I never quite understood why he mixed both linseed and tung oil, but it certainly does produce a beautiful finish.

   Alkyd varnish. This is still available, but you usually have to get it from a real paint store, and it is usually buried on a back shelf.

   For EXTERIOR APPLICATION: Just substitute a convention spar varnish (again , no urethanes) for the alkyd varnish. This is the version I have used most frequently, and it is terrific.

   APPLICATION DIRECTIONS:

   ... Sand to 150 grit.

   ... Wipe on liberally, let soak for 5-10 minutes, wipe off excess.

   ... Use 4 applications.

   ... You can burnish the surface by rubbing in the final application with wet/dry sandpaper (320 or 400 grit)

   ... Sand lightly between coats (I generally use worn 220, or 320).

   For touch-ups: 4/0 steel wool dipped in above mixture.

2. 
   dmt | Jun 05, 2004 10:57pm | #4

   This what Highland Hardware says.

   "For years woodworkers have coveted the secret of Sam Maloof's custom finishes, famous for their rich, deep warmth & beauty. Now Sam's two favorite formulas are available in ready-to-use form.

   Sam uses his Poly-Oil finish on almost everything he builds. It's a mixture of tung oil, linseed oil and satin polyurethane, combining the appeal and ease of application you expect from finishing oil with the great durability of polyurethane. Three or four coats wiped on with a rag yield a thin surface film and a hard satin finish that will stand up to any amount of household wear & tear.

   On his renowned chairs & rockers, Sam starts with the Poly/Oil , then follows up with several coats of his Oil/Wax finish, a creamy blend of wax, pure tung and boiled linseed oil, creating a deep, silky patina that is a delight to both hand and eye. Here the manufacturer of these finishes has used carnauba wax rather than Sam's original choice of beeswax; carnauba is much harder than beeswax, and polishes to a higher sheen. "

   I am familiar with the article you mentioned. There also a more recent article (last 2 - 3  years), but I can't find it. I do remember that it said Maloof uses polyurethane in his finish. I don't understand how these ingredients can work together, especially the oil/wax combination.

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 06, 2004 01:45am | #5

   Polyurethane in the mix is no surprise. Remember my source for his formula goes back close to 20 years, and when Sam first came up with the mix poly was not near so popular.

   I have made my own wiping varnish from paint thinner added to either alkyd or polyurethane varnish, and frankly, I could never see a difference between them -- either in application or appearance.

   So whoever came to Sam, handed him a check, and offered to package his mix with poly instead of alkyd, I imagine he was quite ok with that. I would be too.

   I have used a lot of Watco's Satin Wax -- which is just a liquid wax. I think it is simply a regular wax mixed with some kind of solvent (probably close to paint thinner). I would guess Sam's concoction is pretty much the same. I personally prefer a liquid wax, which may not offer as much protection as the paste wax, but it certainly is easy to work with, requires less buffing, and does indeed impart a warm glow to the finish.