Replies

1. 
   Napie | May 15, 2007 12:55am | #1

   The point of this finish is that it is NOT a top coat.  It is in the wood rather than on it.  I have made my own version of it for years and it is just about the only finish I use.

1. 
   user-90483 | May 15, 2007 02:31am | #2

   The can recommends using the oil/wax stuff as a top coat but I don't think that would be very durable for my intended use. Do you have any experience with top coating it with poly or some other topcoat to enhance durability?

1. 
   Napie | May 15, 2007 03:18am | #4

   Well the oil/wax mixture is to be used on top of the oil/poly.  I use <!----><!---->three to five<!----> applications of the oil/poly applied hot allowing each coat to soak in, then wiping off the excess.  I follow this with two applications of the oil/wax, again heated before being applied and wiped off.  Like I said, I make my own mixture but it is Maloof’s original recipe that I use, (from his book).  I find it to be very durable and easy to repair.  Maloof uses it for his chairs so the durability must be pretty good, he gets $52,000.00 per chair.

1. 
   Cincinnati | May 15, 2007 05:25am | #7

   What is Maloof's recipe? Which book is it in?

    GREG

   <!---->•••••••

   Exo 35:30-35<!---->

1. 
   Napie | May 15, 2007 06:08am | #8

   The only book he ever wrote, “Sam Maloof, Woodworker”, published 1983.  (see page 67-68 for his finish)

   <!----><!----> <!---->

   First finish: 1/3 each linseed oil, raw tung oil, semi-gloss urethane varnish.  Three coats, one each day.

   <!----> <!---->

   Second: ½ linseed oil, ½  raw tung oil and a couple handfuls of shredded bees wax. Heated till the wax melts and applied hot, also three applications.

   <!----> <!---->

   I have been using this mixture for over twenty years.

2. 
   nikkiwood | May 15, 2007 07:58am | #9

   I read an interview with Maloof, many years ago, before the book was published in 1983.At the time, he was using boiled linseed oil, pure tung oil, and alkyd (as opposed to polyurethane) varnish -- with enough mineral spirits to make it easily wipable. For an exterior finish, he dropped the alkyd varnish and substituted spar varnish.Since then, I have used regular polyurethane, and the concoction works fine. I don't think there is anything magical about the proportion of these ingredients. If I want more of the protection you would get with a film finish, I just raise the proportion of poly to the other ingredients.When pure tung oil came to be harder to find, I started experimenting and have used a variety of oil and varnishes mixed together for a wipe-on finish. Watco, for instance is basically boiled linseed oil with some driers and a little varnish thrown in. If you want more surface build/sheen, just add some poly to the Watco.You can even use plain poly, thinned down with paint thinner for a wipe-on finish.********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

2. 
   user-90483 | May 15, 2007 08:19am | #10

   You make a good point with regards Maloof using it for his chairs. Perhaps it will be sufficient on its own without me top coating it after all.

3. 
   jmibullfrog | Jan 28, 2014 09:47pm | #11

   Sam Maloof Oil/Wax

   Can the OIl/Wax be durable enough on a table top? I am putting it on my kitchen table, and have three kids. If it is not durable enough for such an application, what topcoat would you put over the Oil/Wax finish?

2. 
   user-90483 | May 15, 2007 02:35am | #3

   Here is a pic of the piece after the first coat of poly/oil. It's to be used as a small entryway bench type thing hence my need for a relatively durable top (and the pic doesn't really do it justice, weird light)

   
2. 
   HowardAcheson | May 15, 2007 03:51am | #5

   The Maloof finish is an oil/varnish mixture consisting of varnish, linseed oil and mineral spririts. It's like many other oil/varnish mixtures like Watco Danish Oil and Minwax Tung Oil Finish. It's not a very hard finish.

   That said, it's intended to be an "in the wood finish" that leaves the look and feel of the wood. It is durable enough unless your item will get lots of abuse.

   Of course you can overcoat it with a film finish but then you are destroying the benefit of the finish and changing the character of the finish.Howie.........

   
   

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   Edited 5/14/2007 8:52 pm ET by HowardAcheson

3. 
   Cincinnati | May 15, 2007 05:21am | #6

   I have seen David Marks use a blend of Tung Oil, Linseed Oil, and Poly. I believe I heard him say at one point he used equal blends. He brushes it on with one hand and wipes off almost immediately with the other.

   Let dry and buff with steel wool between coats. He repeats 3 or more times as desired.

   GREG

   •••••••••••••
   Exo 35:30-35