I sanded through a small (about 1″ by 1/2″) section of walnut veneer plywood, leaving a very light section. I need to darken this section to match the surrounding veneer, but it will not take stain, filler or oil. I suspect the light patch is is the glue layer between the surface veneer and the next layer.
I only have two ideas: paint, or make a patch. I’m not familiar with glazing or milk paint, but I suspect those might work. I’m reluctant to cut a patch, due to the location, and the difficulty of sanding in the patch to fit without worsening the problem.
Of course, this came at the worst possible time – I was 15 minutes away from being totally done with the final sanding, on this seven-drawer mostly solid walnut dresser.
Any ideas? Thanks.
Replies
Bruce,
I would go with a patch instead of paint. Here is a technique I have used when having to patch a piece of deep tearout or other defect: if you can find a piece of matching walnut scrap wood which includes a tight knot, include the knot in the patch. It will make the patch less visible. The viewer's eye will see the knot but will notice it as a natural difference in the wood, and will not be as likely to notice the repair. GP
Thanks, GP. I think I'll give that a try. Fortunately, I have some extra plywood in which I have replicated the problem, so I can practice the repair technique a few times before I use it on the dresser.
What is your preference in terms of cutting out the area for the patch - using a forstner bit to create a circular patch, or a sharp knife and straight edge to make a rectangular patch? Any other tips on cutting and fitting the patch? Thanks again.
Make the patch a diamond shape. Try to cut the patch material to match the surrounding grain as close as possible. Also, I find it easier to make the patch first, not the cutout. After making the patch place it over the affected area using double stick tape and then use a sharp knife to mark the cutout.
Edited 11/12/2002 1:07:15 PM ET by Ben_Malamed
I use an inlay router kit for patches. It consists of a 1/8" router bit, a bushing that attaches to the router base and a brass spacer which fits tightly over the bushing. You make a template out of plastic or 1/4" MDF or similar material. (Making it a diamond shape like Ben suggested or other odd shape works best. I usually try to make the long lines of the template generally follow the grain of the wood in the area to be patched.) Using the template, you rout out the area in the workpiece, with the spacer attached. You then remove the spacer and rout out the replacement patch. The spacer is the same diameter as the router bit, so you end up with the patch being a press in fit into the workpiece. You never end up with an invisible patch but this is about as close as it gets. GP
GP, love the knot idea... sort of the "hiding in plain sight" method, huh?!
DavidLook, I made a hat -- Where there never was a hat!
David,
If this is in a real prominent spot (and it sounds like it is) I don't think I would make a small patch. I think that would be way too noticeable, no matter how I went about it. Instead, I would remove a long strip of the veneer, all the way from edge to edge (along the grain, of course) and then re-veneer that whole area with a single piece. That way no patch would be noticeable because there wouldn't really be a patch; there would be just another width of veneer.
I'd use a heavy, sharp knife, or the corner of a chisel and a straight edge to score the edges of the area to be removed. You could then use any method you prefer to remove the veneer. I'd probably scrape and chisel; but I've seen it done quickly and easily with a router.
Alan
BH try this, Take some mud from the bottom of a can of Min-wax Special walnut and smear it on the light area with your finger. You can vary the shade by how long you smear it. whe it dries ypu can smear on some finish.
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