I picked up a wood slab from an arborist, and I’m wondering how much I should try to sand down past the marks left by the wood saw. Will they still be quite visible with stain?
KG
I picked up a wood slab from an arborist, and I’m wondering how much I should try to sand down past the marks left by the wood saw. Will they still be quite visible with stain?
KG
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Replies
No finish will hide those sawmarks. Is the wood dry, or just cut?
No, it’s been sitting for a while, so it’s dry.
How much to sand depends on what look you want. If you want a nice furniture-style finish, then you need to spend a lot of time smoothing this out. Hand plane, sanding, card scraper, etc. If you want a rustic look, then some saw marks might help that look. Remember rough places will absorb more stain. What kind of wood is it?
Regarding it being dry, you say "it's been sitting for a while". How long is a while? If it is a 2" slab and "a while" is 2 years or more, then it might be OK. If it's only been a couple months, then that slab still has lots of moisture in it. In the latter case, plan to wait "a while" or find a kiln to speed things up.
Got it, thanks!
It’s cherry, I believe. It’s been sitting for a few years in the garage.
The sander in the photo will take a lifetime to remove those marks. Ask your arborist pal who has a wide enough planer closeby that will run your boards for you...or at least buy a beltsander.
If it was my slab, I would find a way to get it smooth. Planer, drum sander, hand plane, scraper, belt sander, whatever it takes. I do a lot of slab work and the wood just comes alive with a little TLC. I also wouldn't reccomend stain. Just some tung oil or Osmo or Tried and True will make the grain pop. What do you plan to make from it? You can have a look at some of my slab projects at beasley7designs.com
I do have a belt sander, so I’ll use that. Thanks for the tip about not staining. I’ll check out your stuff.
It’ll be a simple writing desk. I was planning to use a sealant at the end. Any recommendations?
Two questions about finishing:
1. Would the random discoloration go away with more sanding, or is that just the way the wood is?
2. Should I do something to deal with the crack?
To turn any large piece of wood in a Flat writing surface of in any furniture panel requires flattening with a planer, power driven or hand plane. A large industrial sander might also get you there. Hand sanding with a belt sander requires skills, I have done it on teak boat decks and hatches going diagonally at right angles and finishing with the grain, it took many years of trying to get there. Such a nice slab of cherry would gain from a pass through à planer at you local mill or furniture maker.
I am not sure which "random discoloration" you are talking about. If you are referring to the really dark spots, they are part of the character of cherry and won't sand out. If you are referring to the dark "clouds" they should sand out. It looks to me like they are the natural darkening of cherry. The dark streak coming from the end check (crack) is kind of a head scratcher. If it is a stain caused by something getting into the crack and soaking into the wood, you may not be able to sand it out.
You have some really cool options to deal with the end check (crack). It doesn't look like it goes all the way through, so the slab is probably pretty stable. I would still stay on the safe side and add a little stabilization. Since it's going to be a desk top, a smooth surface is desirable. That says fill it with epoxy. That would stabilize it and make it smooth. If you want to be a little showy and don't mind a crack in the end of your desk, you could add a little bow tie (or dutchman or butterfly depending on what part of the world you live). If you want the best of both worlds, put in a bow tie and then fill the crack with epoxy. Lots of options for epoxy. I find Mirrorcast from System Three the easiest to work with. You can use clear or add any color you want. Lots of options for the bow tie if you choose to go that route. Maple or walnut are both easy to get. Purpleheart or ebony would also look nice. If you like bling, zebrawood or lacewood would add some sparkle.
Now for some unsolicited advice. Cherry naturally darkens and it does it really fast when light hits it. I left a card scraper and chisel on a piece of cherry and the next morning I had a clear outline of a chisel and card scraper I had to sand out. The wood darkened everywhere except under the tools, so I had to sand the entire piece. Keep your slab covered when not working on it. An old towel or blanket works great for this as long as there are no holes in it.
It is a beautiful slab. Enjoy the project.
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