Replies

1. 
   jim | Dec 18, 2005 02:20am | #1

   Dwight;

   I use the power lock flex edge and start with 60,80,120,180 I use 220 or 240 (wrapped around a sponge to help with heat build up) on finer grained woods like cherry and maple but stop with 180 on coarse woods like oak, ash, or mahogoney.  Of course, I turn the piece at just below the max safe speed based on its diameter.

   As far as removing scratches I have a hand spotlight that I use to check for scratches as i progress through the grits.  A real bright lite is important, at least for aging eyes like mine.

   I hope this helps.

   Regards,

   Jim

    

1. 
   bnjo | Dec 18, 2005 05:54am | #2

   Jim, I'll give a Christmas hint on the flex edge disks. 

   I never thought my shop was dim, but a bright light sure does make a difference.

   Thanks, Dwight

2. 
   ned7 | Dec 19, 2005 07:03pm | #3

   Hi Dwight. I also use the sanding disks Jim mentioned. I would also recommend using a vacuum or compressed air to remove all the dust before changing grits. The dust can get pushed into the small scratches and cover them up so they are hard to see. When I remember to vacuum it out, it seems things go better for me. Also, how are you applying your finish? I sometimes get rotary patterns on my finish because I let heat build up on it while applying it to the spinning piece.

   Good luck.

3. 
   DennisS | Dec 20, 2005 05:29am | #4

   Hi Dwight -

   In another discussion reagarding scraper technique there was a comment by one responder that he rarely sands beyond 220 grit. To which I replied - I sand to 320 and beyond trying to rid my turned pieces of sanding scratches yet still end up seeing them under bright light.

   The answer is, or was to me obvious when you stop to consider we're sanding cross grain in at least half the situations on a turned piece. As such the scratches end up being far more obvious than they would be on flat casework. The suggestion was, to me, to stop the lathe and work each grit with the grain before moving to the next. And for the final sanding at the finest grit finish again with the grain.

   Haven't gotten back to doing much turning what with the horrible temps in the shop right now but I plan on giving this a go. I don't go for a highly polished finish on most of my turnings but when I do I think this will prove to be more successful.

1. 
   bnjo | Dec 20, 2005 05:58pm | #5

   Thanks for the inputs everyone.  I have a portable shop light that really helps me see what's going on and I will, hopefully, get some sanding disks soon. 

   I never considered the fact that half of the piece is end-grain.  I will experiment with turning the lathe off and working with the grain and vacuum between grits. 

   I never gave sanding this much thought before, but it makes more sense to me now.

   Thanks,

   Dwight