Replies

1. 
   Upraiser | Sep 22, 2003 04:27pm | #1

   Have you tried using a sharp scaper? It works well for me.

   Sand paper tends to round over the high spots, a freshly sharpened scaper will clean it off nice and level, and  take just the run.  Use a light source at an angle to help you see the run and the progress.

   On curved areas, might need a curver one, or use a sharp chisel.

   Good luck with it.

   Curt

1. 
   Kevin | Sep 23, 2003 11:13pm | #8

   I agree that a scraper is the best way to deal with runs and sags. But, lacking a scraper... one can make a one-sided razor blade function close to the same. Or you can wetsand the run/sag with mineral spirits. The MS will lubricate and cause the sandpaper to work mostly just on the high points of the run or sag. Actually, I would recommend wetsanding lightly even after using a scraper.

   Regards,

   Kevin

2. 
   EdHarrow | Sep 22, 2003 05:03pm | #2

   Ouch.  What Curt says.

3. 
   DonC | Sep 22, 2003 05:20pm | #3

   The scraper suggestion is good advice BUT that is the tool you should have used instead of sandpaper to level the runs followed by light sanding to feather out. But now you hve a problem that is covered up with several layers of poly. How are you going to fix it? Since you can't sand off all the finish due to the plywood, you will have to use chemicals to strip it.

   Your problem is the number one reason I don't use poly. I have experienced the same thing. Runs and drips are always going to happen when we wipe or brush. I have switched to HOT finishes like laquer and shellac. HOT means, each coat melts the previous coat and will blend in any sand thru areas you have touched up from sanding funs. I typically use high gloss brush coats until the final coat and then use an aersol spray can for the last coat. If I want a satin finsh, I only apply satin at the last coat. This is better than using satin for all layers because satin finishes contain silica sand to diffuse the light refraction. Many many coats of satin will cloud the finsh. You can also achieve satin with all coats gloss if you steel wool the last coat with 4/0 and lubricant like mineral oil on the final coat. It is sometimes difficlut to steel wool tight crevaces though to achieve the satin look. If a stain finish is desired I usually spray satin as the last coat. With laquer, some guys, with spray equipment, will spray straight 100% laquer thinner over the dried last coat to melt the surface and it will level out near perfect without alot of rubbing.

   Stick with any HOT finish and sand thru problems will be eliminated. Drawback to my suggestions are, laquer is smelly and shellac disolves with acohol but both are very easy to repair and touch up. Poly is not repair friendly.

   Hope this helps,

   Don

1. 
   woodshoplast | Sep 22, 2003 10:37pm | #4

   I just couldn't bring myself to strip that top. Don't  think it was bad enough to risk doing that.  The top is dyed, stained, and has multiple coats of poly. Importantly, it is assembled and would be very difficult to avoid causing more problems. I could only see imperfection from a side view point and the table is in a well lighted shop. It will be in my bedroom which is not as well lighted.

   What I did: I carefully sanded again, put on another coat, waited until was almost dry and wiped on poly in bad spots. Then I wiped it off with a slightly damp mineral spirits rag. That sufficiently dulled or marred those problem areas so that the next two coats have just about eliminated the problem. I'm not sure yet if will totally correct problem as am still putting on gloss poly.

   I didn't know that satin poly clouded the finish and never thought about scraping off runs. Learn something every time I go to Knots. Thanks very much for your help. agriffee

1. 
   johnnyd | Sep 22, 2003 11:08pm | #5

   If anyone ever sees this and asks you about it, say it's your "trademark".

   Keep doing it that way, and in 100 years, on Antique Road Show it will be worth alot more with a few dull spots.  Your relatives will thank you.

   ;<)

   Really only a comment about knowing when to realize that you are "close enough" to start enjoying using the piece and that it's time to get on to the next one. 

   I always wondered what that stuff was in the bottom of the can of satin poly. <G>

   Edited 9/22/2003 4:14:20 PM ET by johnnyd

1. 
   woodshoplast | Sep 23, 2003 04:16am | #6

   You're right. Time to bring it in and watch the wife lay a cover on it, pile up flowers and other junk to cover up all that pretty finish I worked so hard to get. Ha-Ha

   Actually, think I talked her out of the cover since I gave her the shiny gloss look. It turned out almost flawless after a few more coats by the way. agriffee

1. 
   johnnyd | Sep 23, 2003 03:46pm | #7

   I've got a project going with a really nice piece of figured maple plywood. It's a counter top with backsplash and side splashes all of the figured stuff, and edge banding out of regular maple sticks.  Got to 220 ROS last night over the initial coat of shellac sanding sealer, but the edge banding is uncoated yet.  Wondering if I should put another coat of shellac over all  before laying the semi-gloss (Varathane "floor") poly on.  The figured ply is actually a little wavy.

2. 
   woodshoplast | Sep 24, 2003 12:27am | #9

   Seems to me that sanding sealer is necessary for two reasons, to seal in something like a water base dye, or to keep material from soaking up too much, ie: stain, etc. However to get the same color you may want the shellac on banding as well.  I usually do a sample piece. Regards, agriffee