Replies

1. 
   Bob_The_Boardman | Mar 16, 2002 04:42pm | #1

   *
   The BLO can take quite a while to dry (days, and if humid, weeks) and on a vertical surface that can be a pain.

   The reason for the sealer in this case is that the lcquer will dissolve some of the BLO causing either poor adhesion or a gummy mess. The sealer is basically forming a barrier coat between the BLO & lacquer.

1. 
   Howard_Acheson | Mar 16, 2002 05:54pm | #2

   *Bob, all lacquer based sanding sealer is, is lacquer that has had some additional solids and sterates (or soaps) added to make it easier to sand. It's basicly lacquer. Lacquer based sanding sealer does not provide an barrier at all. There are sealers that do provide a barrier, but sanding sealer is not one of them.You are correct that BLO can take quite a while to fully cure. Putting on a light coat to "pop" the grain and immediately wiping it as dry as you can will get you to an overcoat in a 4-6 days generally. If it still has an odor, let it cure longer.A BLO coating for coloring followed by lacquer is a nice finish. If the sprayer knows what he is doing, he will just "mist" on the first couple of coats to seal it, then apply full strength coats.Keep in mind that lacquer is not as durable a finish as varnish but if you avoid harsh cleaning chemicals and heat, it should last very well.

1. 
   wedgehead | Mar 18, 2002 01:15am | #3

   *This is the kind of finish I am trying to steer them into. I agree that laquer isn't the most durable finish out there, but in the real world environment of a dusty jobsite, I think it's about all most painters will use.If if read you right, the sanding dealer is more expedient than necessary? It seems to me the tight grain of the maple doesn't need to be filled. The only real task at hand is to beutify and protect the wood. Hopefully he can find a painter with an open mind.Also, in the past I have cut BLO up to 1-1 with naptha, and it seems to dry rather quickly. Any downside to this practice?

1. 
   Howard_Acheson | Mar 18, 2002 07:14pm | #4

   *>>If if read you right, the sanding dealer is more expedient than necessary? It seems to me the tight grain of the maple doesn't need to be filled. A thinned coat of laquer, a light sanding and that is all you need. Then shoot the full strength lacquer.>>Also, in the past I have cut BLO up to 1-1 with naptha, and it seems to dry rather quickly. The solvent will evaporate, but the underlying BLO still needs the same amount of time to cure. Keep smelling the surface, when it no longer has a linseed oil odor, it is cured. It can take a while depending on the temperature and humidity.

1. 
   sschefer | Mar 22, 2002 04:47pm | #5

   I talked to a painter friend of mine that just finished a job with Maple cabinets. He used laquer and a similar technique except that there was no need to sand since the top coat will disolve into the tack coat. The first coat is shot light just to provide a tacky surface so the top coat resists runs better. Shoot the top coat on immediately after the tack coat because the laquer will tack up quickly. For a more durable finish he recommended a coat of wipe on poly over the laquer.

   Steve Schefer

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 22, 2002 05:25pm | #6

   Steve, what your finisher is doing is perfectly OK and is the way many finishers shoot lacquer. Lacquer is a reactive finish that melts the upper layer of the previous coat so sanding for adhesion is not required. However, sanding for flattening may be called for sometimes.

   As to overcoating the lacquer with polyurethane varnish. Poly varnish has a relatively low adhesion property and putting it over a prior surface is sometimes problematic. Varnish is not a reactive finish so it does not melt the previous coat to provide adhesion. If you must use poly over lacquer, then the lacquer should be thoroughly scuff sanded prior to applying the varnish.

3. 
   sschefer | Mar 22, 2002 05:53pm | #7

   Howie, its possible that he assumed I knew that the scuff up would be required. I tried the wipe on over laquer on a piece of scrap that I'm going to leave out in the weather to see what happens. If it turns out O.K. after a couple of months I may just do my laquered baltic birch kitchen cabinets. It would sure make cleanup a lot easier. I have to be careful when I clean them now and I don't dare get to scrubbing too hard for fear of breaking into the finish. Kids peanut butter and jelly coated fingers are hard to control but the Magic Markers are the worst.Steve Schefer

4. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 22, 2002 09:15pm | #8

   Steve, unless your poly specifically states it is an exterior product, do not use it outdoors in direct sunlight. UV rapidly causes deterioration of the poly additive. In general, poly varnishes are interior products but there are some exterior poly varnish products manufactured by marine coatings companies. I would not use any "big box" brands of poly outdoors even if they say they can be used. An exterior standard varnish would be the thing to use outdoors.

5. 
   wedghead | Mar 31, 2002 02:38am | #9

   Thanks for the interest guys. I spoke with him a couple of days ago and I think the blo/wiping poly approach is beginning to appeal to his pocketbook. Low bid so far is still almost 2 grand.

   It's good to see that I'm not the only one here that doesn't see sanding sealer as the only way to go.