Replies

1. 
   CharlieP | Mar 31, 2004 04:48am | #1

   I used some name brand water based stain from Home Depot once.  It had all the beauty of thick laytex house paint.  Never again. 

   Be sure you try it on scrap, with or without sealer, before you throw it out. 

   By the way, did I mention I didn't like it?

   ________________________
   Charlie Plesums  Austin, Texas
   http://www.plesums.com/wood

2. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Apr 01, 2004 02:32am | #2

   try a 1# cut of dewaxed shellac , or use your top coat thinned by 50% on the bare wood, then sand before staining. 

3. 
   Sancho | Apr 01, 2004 05:55am | #3

   yea you will need some conditioner to avoid blotching. I think it is inherent with pine. I really think useing sanding sealer is the way 2 go. 2 coats of sealer sanding in between each wipeing it with a damp rag then spraying with the finish 2 coats sanding in between. I really like enduro coat @ http://www.compliantspraysystems.com or you can buy fuhr at either http://www.homesteadfinishing.com or http://www.joesphfusco.org I havent used fuhr but have heard good things about it. I dont think you need a sealer with the fuhr. Its supposed to be self sealing.

    

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4. 
   stancalow | Apr 02, 2004 03:58am | #4

   mikkimel

   There is such a thing as a sealer made for water-based stain and finish.  The kind I have used is Hydro-cote Pre-seal.  I only used it once so can't vouch for its versatility.  I will say that waterbased stain and fiinish is tricky if you aren't ready for the grain-raising.  

1. 
   Kevin | Apr 02, 2004 08:18am | #5

   Pre-raising the grain by wiping the piece down with a wet rag and allowing it to dry overnight before a final sanding will mitigate most of the grain raising that's to be expected when using a water-based finish. However, it won't help with the blotches. A pre-stain conditioner or a wash sealer will be needed for that.

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