Replies

1. 
   chrisw | Jul 27, 2011 02:34pm | #1

   Hi.

   I have used pegboard for the surface of a sanding table. A lightweight frame with half lap joints of 2"x1/2" helps to support the pegboard and doesn't cover too many of the pegboard holes.

   I also used a countersink bit in a drill to chamfer the holes slightly.

   If the table is made as the same height as a piece of machinery (sawtable or jointer) then it can be used as an outfeed table too.

   To tell the truth, mine is used more as an outfeed table as i prefer to plane and cabinet scrape the boxes I make and rarelt sand enough to warrant using the sanding table.

2. 
   WoosterJim | Jul 27, 2011 10:11pm | #2

   Hi Chris,

   Many thanks for your response.  Did you use hard or soft side up?

   woojim

3. 
   RalphBarker | Jul 28, 2011 09:02am | #3

   options

   Pegboard can work, but you may find that you need to provide interior support to avoid the surface flexing too much under pressure. A few strategically-placed dowels with small round tenons that fit into the pegboard holes might work for that, without interfering with the airflow to the dust collector. You'll likely still want to use the perferated rubber shelf lining material to get around the workpiece vibrating around the surface, though.

   The other alternative is to use a finish sander that has good built-in dust collection combined with perferated sanding disks or sheets. The Festool ROS sanders attached to their dust collecter/shop-vac are good examples. The Bosch half-sheet finish sander also works well, and includes a plastic plate that perforates regular sandpaper.

4. 
   WoosterJim | Jul 28, 2011 10:25am | #4

   Tips on Sanding Table

   RalphBarker,

   Appreciate your comments.  I figured I'd need some sort of interior support.  Hadn't thought about shelf lining to dampen vibrations.

   Many thanks!

   woojim

5. 
   gpssam | Jul 28, 2011 11:13am | #5

   I used plywood

   I made mine on wheels to also serve as a outfeed table with storage under it. I used 1/2 inch birch plywood for the top (36x48) and routed 1/4 inch slots in it. I was worried that the holes in the peg board would not allow enough air flow. I have a lot of slots cut , so to help to direct the down draft where I want it I lay a few pieces of plywood scrap over the area not covered by the work piece. I also hook my ROS to my shop vac. With this set up almost no dust escapes. At one time I hated to sand, now I actually don't mind. Now, if I could just figure out a way to silence the @$#& shop vac.....

6. 
   HowardAcheson | Jul 29, 2011 11:24am | #6

   I used 1/4" pegboard and

   I used 1/4" pegboard and drilled out the 1/4" holes to 3/8th of an inch.  I then tapered each hole with a counter sink intended for metal cutting  (pegboard is quite abrasive).

   I also built the top as a torsion box so the top is flat enough and strong enough to use as an assembly table.  Mine uses an internal furnace fan so it is easily movable and quiet.  I can also use it to supplement my air cleaner by directing the air discharge out under a partially opened garage door.

   This is the best device I ever built.  It collects at least 90% or all the dust created when sanding.

1. 
   WoosterJim | Jul 31, 2011 05:32pm | #8

   Torsion box table

   Howard,

   Your torsion box method sounds appealing.  I appreciate the other details of your table but I'd like to know more about how you made the torsion box.

   Many thanks for your remarks.

   woojim

1. 
   RalphBarker | Aug 04, 2011 10:30am | #9

   torsion boxes, etc.

   Jim, torsion boxes are typically made with thin strips of wood with interlocking slits to form a lattice pattern - similar to the cardboard separators in boxes that carry bottles. The interlocking slits are the same width as the strips, and extend half the width of the strip. Once all the overlaping joints are glued, the assembly becomes quite rigid. The lattice is then glued to the covering "skin" - thin sheet material, usually on both sides of the typical torsion box, but only one side for the sanding table surface. The spacing between the slits would need to be equal to, or some multiple of the spacing between the holes in the pegboard.

   The suction efficiency is a balance between the air-flow area of the shop-vac hose (pi x r-squared) and the combined area of the holes in the pegboard surface. Too much exposed hole area on the pegboard reduces the efficiency. If the shop-vac hose is connected to the side of the box, there will also be unequal suction across the surface. The most efficient sanding table will be one with a cone-like structure below, with the vac hose connected in the center. But, you'll still end up with a "hot spot" in the middle, right above the hose connection. Nature doesn't work harder than it needs to.

1. 
   WoosterJim | Aug 09, 2011 10:34am | #10

   torsion boxes, again

   Ralph, many thanks for your comments both about the torsion box idea and some principles of air flow.  Im now comfortable to get started.

   woojim

7. 
   WoosterJim | Jul 31, 2011 05:26pm | #7

   Slots in sanding table

   Dear gpssam,

   I'm interested in your routed slots as an option for a sanding table.  What was your pattern/arrangement?

   woojim