Replies

1. 
   domermatt | Jun 13, 2005 06:33am | #1

   I use the 3M sandpaper.  Buy a good brand of sandpaper, and change it as needed.  I actually find it cuts more to my liking after the first pass over it. Initially the grit is too rough, rougher than the previous grit usually.  I use elmer's 77 spray adhesive, but any spray adhesive works fine.  Coat all the paper or you'll rip it.

   You don't want to work in figure 8 like with stones.  I go side to side, putting a little more pressure on the trailing side if i wanted a cambered edge.  Good luck, you won't regret the initial investment.

    

   When people 100 years from now see my work, they'll know I cared. --Matt Mulka
2. 
   Garry | Jun 13, 2005 02:20pm | #2

   I use wet or dry sand paper from 3M up to 2000 grit then for the final I use Meguir's 3000 grit. For flattening the backs of chisels and Irons I start with plain old aluminum oxide 80 grit the progress from 120, 180, 320, 400, 600, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 and finally 3000 grit. I use a spray bottle water to keep the area of the sand paper I am using wet to lubricate. The sandpaper seems to last longer and the process seems to go quicker keeping the sandpaper wet.

   Garry

   http://www.superwoodworks.com

3. 
   Miami | Jun 13, 2005 07:23pm | #3

   I like the PSA 3M paper from Joel - I tried the 77 adhesive, but found that I wasn't getting a perfectly flat result, plus it's a pain to clean off the glass.  The PSA is also nice for detail sanding or carving gouges, as it's a breeze to attach it to a dowel or a profiled sanding block, for me the small extra $ over the non-adhesive is well spent. 

   I also appreciate the trick (which I think I read here) of putting one of the LV rare-earth magnets in a film canister (how much longer will those be around?) and using it to 'vacuum' the swarf off the paper - a few swipes, then shake the canister over the trash, et voila!

   Going all the way to .3 micron is way-overkill for chisels, but for a smoothing plane iron, I've found that I (think I) can feel the difference in the wood surface with every grit size.

   Finally, Joel's is the ONLY place I've found that carries the 3M PSA paper down to .3 micron grit.

   See http://tinyurl.com/3r4l5

   Clay

1. 
   MarkRD | Jun 13, 2005 07:37pm | #4

   To clean 77 off of glass, scrape the glass with a dull chisel :-) to remove the old paper, then dampen a rag with lacquer thinner and wipe. The 77 will come of easily.Assuming you are using 77 in a spray can, make sure you don't spray too much then lay the paper down on the glass starting with one corner and work your way across the sheet. After you've put the sheet down wipe the paper flat (but don't use your hand unless you like sandpaper burns, use a rag). You'll get no lumps that way...I use 3/8" glass (the kind used for shelves) - it's about the width of 1/2 a sheet of paper and the full length (11"). I can take strokes longer than my water stones...Mark
   

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

4. 
   lwj2 | Jun 14, 2005 01:38am | #5

   Klingspor's W/D.

   I've used spray on adhesive with glass, oil when I've used my TS top.

   I freehand, so if necessary I can hold it with the other hand.

   I seldom sharpen beyond shaving sharp, polishing to a mirror finish isn't that important to me. If I have to polish something, I use a buffing wheel with rouge.

   YMMV.

   Leon Jester
5. 
   sedna | Jun 14, 2005 03:03am | #6

   Lots of other posts about sandpaper, all good advice. The only thing not mentioned is that I finish up with a few swipes over a leather belt which is glued to a wood strip. I rub the green honing compound from lee valley on the belt every once in awhile. This seems to give it just that little extra polish.
   Keith