Replies

1. 
   charlesm | Feb 05, 2006 05:34pm | #1

   You can use the same bits as you do for the stiles and rails and rip off the back or you can use them on thinner stock. Be very careful with these cuts and use lots of feather boards, guides, hold downs, etc. as the material will be very thin and flexible and subject to breakage and kickback.

   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

1. 
   clem | Feb 08, 2006 02:13pm | #3

   Thank you both for your help.  So just to make sure I have this straight.  I would probably cut the vertical pieces first then fill in with the horizontal ones.  There will not be a need to half-lap the grid.  I didn't think about using the stile and rail bits, good idea.

   Thanks again

   Clem

2. 
   hammer1 | Feb 05, 2006 06:28pm | #2

   With some rail and stile bits, you could just use the cope and bead portion of the bit. I can remove the straight cutting parts of my bits. You would then cut your stock to the profile size. The construction strength will rely on the coped joints but the grid will integrate with the door bead. When needing to cope very small, thin, pieces, it's easier to cope a wide board and rip it to the size you need afterwards. You can also run the bead down the edge of one side before ripping. You'll only have to worry about supporting the piece for one cut.

   Another way is to half lap square stock. You can do something to the edges once the grid is assembled. Either shape the edge, which could take some additional hand work in the corners or add something mitered around each opening, like a small bead. The ends of the grid can be lapped into the door frame. The grid can also be made as a unit with a perimeter piece. This is often rabbeted to drop in around the frame.

   You can also cut out a decorative grid from thin plywood, metal sheets, etc. And you can glue on pieces of whatever to the glass. I've also seen some of that fake stained glass lead applied to glass.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match