Does anyone know a good cheap store bought cleaner to remove pit from circuklar saw blades? I read once the Simply Green was very good
Thax
Greg
Does anyone know a good cheap store bought cleaner to remove pit from circuklar saw blades? I read once the Simply Green was very good
Thax
Greg
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Replies
oven cleaner "easy off"
We have it direct from at least one blade manufacturer not to use oven cleaner (lye) as it can affect the bonding between the carbide and the blade body. This is an old, old technique that really needs to fade into oblivion.
Yes, Simple Green works just fine. It's easy on your body, unlike lye, and is available at the grocery store or hardware store. I bought a can of the BBQ formula, as it is a foam version and clings a bit.
Any cleaner will work the best if you clean when needed, and not wait until the stuff builds up too much (better for your blade too, as pitch creates heat). Lay the blade down on some foil or in a pizza pan, spray with Simple Green or 409, let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes, then use a toothbrush and clean. If all the pitch doesn't come off, take a kitchen scrubber that's made for Teflon (usually white scrubby part, not green) and get the residual stuff off.
Kerosene also works (soak overnight, I guess) but why use it when it takes longer and is a disposal headache once you're done with it?
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Edited 2/11/2005 12:52 pm ET by forestgirl
forest girl, i beg to differ...
not sure who that manufacturer is but i've used oven cleaner for years and never had a problem. i fail to see how lye(sodium hydroxide) can cause to metals which are welded together to separate. yes, it could remove a teflon coating, but that's all...
Carbide is a composite material, the carbide grains are cemented together by a binder, typically metallic cobalt, nickel, or mix of nickel and chrome. The end result is like concrete, grains of sand and gravel all held together by the cement in the mix.
Both acids and bases can attack the binder metals used to make carbide saw teeth, breaking the binder down so that it can no longer hold onto the carbide grains. When this happens the carbide crumbles like poorly made concrete and the sharp edges of the saw's teeth get rounded off.
The sodium hydroxide (lye), in oven cleaner is highly corrosive to just about anything it touches, including the binders used in carbide, this is why it shouldn't be used to clean saw blades.
John W.
good to know, i'll have to be judicious in using oven cleaner.
Thanks to JohnW for explaining (and also clarifying) the lye/saw blade thing. Click here to see the original post from a representative of Freud. I suspect it's a danger that seldom occurs in real life, but we need to be aware of it.
Even if lye had no downside for the saw blade, I'd prefer to use a household cleaner when it works just as well. Why hassle with the lye (gloves, glasses -- because I wear contacts and don't dare get any in my eyes, whatever else), when a squirt or few of Simple Green works just as well?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Speed.
But, as we all know, safety first. Simple Green is a sound alternative.
I'm not really trying to be obnoxious here <grin> but speed? The only time I've had to let my blades soak more than a couple-five minutes was when I waited to long to clean them. Even my softie toothbrushes work.
Any faster, and I'd not have time to grab a cup of coffee!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I USE SIMPLY GREEN IT'S CHEAP AND EASY TO GET ANY WERE. i USE A FRISBEE LAY THE BLADE IN AND POUR THE GREEN STUFF ON AND WIPE OFF WITH A RAG AFTER A FEW MINUTES.
You all , shouldn' t be so ceap and go out and buy a can of saw clean for $4.95 used the one I have for around 4 years.But it might not cost that small amount now.
Thanks, I remember reading about Simply Green in Fine Woodworking.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the alternative to Simply Green.
I went to Woodcraft and while I was looking at the blade cleaner(don't remember the brand name), I decides to take a whiff to see if it was identifiable. If any of you have seen a product called "Little Effort", it smells exactly the same. Citrus based and it's supposed to be diluted for weaker dirt and full strength for the tough stuff. I would imagine that any citrus cleaner will work.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
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