Replies

1. 
   Scrit | Feb 03, 2004 07:41pm | #1

   Melamine-coated chipboard is normally tackled using a triple chip blade designed for the task in conjunction with a scoring blade (i.e. on a scoring panel saw). If you have no scoring blade look for a blade made with a special grind and an extra high top bevel, typically 35 to 40 degrees (e.g. the Jesade Ultra Cut 80-tooth). I've tried one of these (a 12in 96 tooth) in place of my normal ATB/scorer combination and I was seriously impressed, although I wouldn't like to say how well it would perform over the longer term - how sharp it will stay or how many regrinds you're going to get out of it.

   Scrit

2. 
   johnhardy | Feb 03, 2004 08:12pm | #2

   Forrest makes a blade for melamine, called, I think, Hi A/T.

   John

3. 
   forestgirl | Feb 03, 2004 08:33pm | #3

   Freud makes 2 LU-series blades recommended for laminates.  The LU92M is a 60-tooth blade with a 6* hook angle, triple-chip grind.  The LU98R is an 80-tooth blade, TCG with a 10* hook angle.  I'll give Charles a heads-up and he'll stop by and explain which is best for what.

   forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

4. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Feb 03, 2004 09:55pm | #4

   FX,

   the blades with a negative rake work well (tooth angle greater than 90 degrees).  It's what I used to use to do this (I have a saw + scoring blade now).

   There was minimal breakout.

   Cheers,

   eddie

   edit:  Rather than re-type, here's a recent thread on the same subject.

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=15635.1

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/3/2004 1:58:43 PM ET by eddie (aust)

5. 
   stevemorris | Feb 03, 2004 10:00pm | #5

   i cut melamine sheets using a circular saw and an edge guide, much easier than handling 4x8 sheets on a table saw

   i set up my edge guide 5 inches back from the cut line and cut in two passes

   the first pass just scores the top layer and then the second pass goes all the way through

   i use a top quality freud blade recommended for melamine panels not sure what the model is

   and yes i get a perfect chip free cut everytime

   caulking is not a piece of trim

6. 
   rslatm | Feb 03, 2004 10:00pm | #6

   I've used the Forest HI/AT and it give a chip free cut. You don't even need a zero clearance insert. It features alternatinsg bevels on the tips with sharper angles than typically found on alternating bevels and I believe a C4 carbide.
1. 
   JBD | Feb 03, 2004 10:50pm | #7

   Negative hooks with hi alternate bevels (like the Hi/AT as some have noted here) are clearly better than triple chip.  Go to any pro shop and see.  Most of the hi-end kitchens I did had melamine interiors, and my two negative hook blades from FS Tool (XL 4000 I think) perform zero bottom chipout better and longer than my triple chip.

    

   "The furniture designer is an architect." - Maurice DuFrenes (French Art Deco furniture designer, contemporary of Ruhlmann)

   http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro   http://www.johnblazydesigns.com

   Edited 2/3/2004 2:52:14 PM ET by DrDichroic

7. 
   charlesm | Feb 03, 2004 11:17pm | #8

   FX,

   I agree with the majority here that the low hook angle, HiATB is the best bet (Freud's version is the F810). These give the cleanest cut in melamine, laminates and veneered plywoods and, with the right grade of carbide, will give respectable life. A low hook angle TCG blade like Forest Girl mentioned (like a Freud LU97R010) will give nearly as good results and will yield considerably longer life. So, if you are going for cut quality over blade life (or you work primarily with veneered plywood) pick the HiATB. For super blade life over slight loss in cut quality (or if you work primarily with melamine/laminates) go for a low hook angle TCG. With either choice the key to best cut quality is correct blade height. If the blade is set too low the material will chip on top and if the blade is too high it will chip on the bottom.

   Forest Girl,

   Thanks for the heads-up ;)

   Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

1. 
   JBD | Feb 04, 2004 12:32am | #9

   Ahh Charles . . The sweet spot of blade height - very elusive, glad you brought that up.  I was amazed when I would get better bottoms than tops on melamine til I dialed in my blade ht.    Interesting point on longevity vs quality of cut.  Can't you guys do both?  For crying out loud, we're bouncing spacecraft on Mars, and you can't make a blade that matches our utopia of longevity AND quality?  ;)  ;)  ;)  

   "The furniture designer is an architect." - Maurice DuFrenes (French Art Deco furniture designer, contemporary of Ruhlmann)

   http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro   http://www.johnblazydesigns.com

1. 
   charlesm | Feb 04, 2004 12:44am | #10

   DrDichroic,

   As soon as we begin manufacturing cutting tools on Mars I believe we'll be able to conquer that conundrum!Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

2. 
   FrankinAz | Feb 05, 2004 03:57pm | #11

   Thanks for all the advice, I'm getting a very good price on the Freud HiATB so I'm going to give it a try.

1. 
   mitch | Feb 05, 2004 05:39pm | #12

   ooooookay...  any hints as to what that magical blade height might be?  or how one goes about finding it without excessive trial & error?  thanks.

   m

   (there seems to be a considerable difference of opinion around here as to what constitutes the ideal blade height under varying circumstances so i thought i'd ask about this one in particular)

1. 
   charlesm | Feb 05, 2004 06:00pm | #13

   mitch,

   For all Freud blades where the proper blade is being used for the application the ideal blade height is approximately 1/2 of a tooth protruding beyond the material. You should start there and adjust as needed for optimum cut.Charles M

   Freud, Inc.

2. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Feb 05, 2004 10:21pm | #14

   Mitch - Charles is about right there.

   Basically but, it is trial and error - you want to cut the board without breakout, so you want the blade raised as low as possible. 

   Too low and the gullets bind with dust and burn.

   Too high and the lower surface of the board breaks out.

   Correct blade height is looking for the happy medium.

   Takes about 30 seconds and a bit of scrap to confirm you've got it right.

   Cheers,

   eddie

1. 
   mitch | Feb 05, 2004 10:46pm | #15

   that's actually the first i've ever heard of any recommendation for just half a tooth of exposure for any application.  typical "minimum" blade height suggestions start at a full tooth to full gullet protrusion and go up from there.  i suppose this would make for approximately straight on impact angle on both upper and lower surfaces with a minimum hook angle (a negative hook would seem to negate pretty much any advantage of a hi-atb teeth configuration- just thinking out loud).  i don't have a lot of experience with melamine but haven't had any problems using zero-clearance inserts and high quality blades designed for the purpose- hadn't really given much thought to blade height but will now.  thanks.

   m