Replies

1. 
   Upraiser | Nov 23, 2003 05:48pm | #1

   I have used the Forrest WW 11  40 tooth on my Delta Unisaw for about 10 years, never change it. Cut miles of MDF, Melmine, plywood, oak, fir, alder and it still is sharp. cross cuts plywood with very little tear out.

   I notice a slight increase in chipping on the underside of melmine, but not on the top. However that may not be the fault of the blade, the last batch of the stuff seemed a bit more course. 

   I am not a full time woodworker, but built a full house full of cabinets, did all the wood work out of MDF, and built a number of cabnets, bookcases.

   I would recommend using a blade stabilizer.

   My only experience with Dewalt blades is a 12" that came with my chop saw, it was okay, but I replaced it with a Forrest.

   I know that you cannot go wrong with the Forrest blade. 

   Hope this helps.

   Curt

2. 
   Dustmight | Nov 23, 2003 06:24pm | #2

   The Forrest WWII is an excellent blade, and considered by many to be the standard for consumer use. They're also expensive, but worth it IMO. I haven't used any DeWalt blades, but read an article that compared DeWalt's best against the Forrest. They liked the DeWalt, but thought it fell short of the performance of the Forrest.

   WWer's Warehouse currently has the Freud LU84 on sale for $29.99....very good blade at an excellent price.

   I'd definitely get a thin kerf no matter which blade you choose.

3. 
   Ricky_Yu | Nov 23, 2003 06:27pm | #3

   1. I think 60 teeth (I'm assuming a 10" blade) is too many to be an effective rip blade, so sharpening it won't help your situation.

   2. A Forrest WWII is certainly a good combination blade, and they come in a thin-kerf, which I suggest for your saw. Many people recommend a thin-kerf blade for 1-1/2 hp contractor saws, so that probably goes double for your 13 amp DW744 bench saw. Look into getting a blade stiffener if going with the thin-kerf option. Forrest and Freud have them, as well as DeWalt (DW7605).

   3. The DW7150TK might actually be a good blade to go with if you plan on sticking with one blade for the vast majority of your cuts. It's a thin-kerf and has 50 teeth with an ATB&R grind, or alternate top bevel and raker. The raker allows for flat bottoms when doing non-through cuts. This is my main problem with the Forrest in that the grind is only an ATB. While this is fine for ripping or crosscutting, non-through cuts like grooves or dadoes end up with less than desirable v-shaped bottoms (I know you're supposed to use a dado set for these, but sometimes it's hardly worth the hassle to change blades when you're doing something like plowing a 1/8" wide groove or nibbling away at a tenon; after all, it's supposed to be a "combination" blade.)

   4. I don't see a DW7654 in the catalog, but I do see a DW7614 which is the Series 60 standard-kerf 40-teeth finish ripping blade. At any rate, see above regarding the thin-kerf recommendation.

1. 
   Kwatkins50 | Nov 24, 2003 04:10am | #5

   Ricky,

   Thanks for the feedback.  I didn't realize that the Forrest Woodworder II was available in thin kerf.  I checked the Forrest website and the 10" thin-kerf is a W21014 on sale for $95 and their 5" stabilizer is recommended and costs $24.  This sounds like exactly what I need and will put it at the top of my Christmas list.   

   Thanks,

   Kenneth 

4. 
   robkress | Nov 24, 2003 01:48am | #4

   The only thing that Dewalt blades are sharp enough to cut is your finger.  I have never used any Dewalt blade that was sharper than a butter knife.  And they go from butter knife sharp to kindergarten scissor dull with one cut of cardboard.  If you don't want to spend the money on the Forest, try a Freud.  Great bang for the buck.  Certainly not as good as the Forest, but also not as expensive.  Definitely better than a Dewalt.

   Rob Kress

5. 
   VeniciaL | Nov 24, 2003 10:47am | #6

   I have had a DeWalt 10" 60 tooth, thin kerf (DW3215TK) blade on a contractors saw for over a year.

   I have run a LOT of maple, other hardwood, a ton of fir and a bit of MDF through this saw.

   The blade performs flawlessly. I clean the tar and pitch off every few months with alcohol. The teeth look as good as the day I put it on.

   Cross cuts are splinter-free. It rips anything I've given it. Cuts are jointer-smooth.

   I was getting a little saw tooth swirl and that was due to the table alignment. Once that was adjusted, absolutely smooth cuts.

   I'm not using a blade stabilizer. It vibrates a little on startup and spin down, but runs true at speed.

   The blade cost me $39 at Home Depot.

   VL

1. 
   Kwatkins50 | Nov 24, 2003 05:55pm | #7

   Venicia,

   Thanks for the tip on checking table alignment.  I assume you mean checking to assure that the fence is parallel to the blade.  I have only checked this by placing the fence against the blade and it appears to be touching uniformly but I have not used any gauges.  How did you check the alignment?

   Thanks,

   Kenneth  

1. 
   VeniciaL | Nov 24, 2003 06:34pm | #9

   None,

   No, Im referring to aligning the saw blade parallel to the milled miter slots. It's a difficult adjustment for most contractors saws, but easy on cabinet saws because of the way the assembly is hung from the underside of the saw table on the two different designs. Contractors saws are suspended with (typically) unconnected trunion assemblies which must be adjusted. Cabinet saws just require that the table be shifted.

   A jig is used that rides in the miter slot and measures the distance to a single tooth on the blade. A dial indicator can be used, or a simple low-tech feeler stick can do just as well. The blade is raised and the same tooth is referenced as the blade is slowly rotated almost 180 degrees.

   As far as saw blades go, I think the Forrest blades are worth every cent. But the truth is that carbide blade manufacture is not rocket science and most large manufacturers have the equipment and expertise to produce blades that are superior to anything that existed a decade ago. The small shops like Forrest must charge more for their specialty due to economy of volume. I don't think you will be disappointed in blades from Freud, Dewalt, or any of the other usual sources. But stay away from the real bargain-basement models. $39 was a great price for the Dewalt blade. I would have paid $60 and in the range from about there up to the real expensive blades, you just are not going to get a bad blade.

   VL

   Edited 11/24/2003 10:36:53 AM ET by Venicia L

1. 
   Kwatkins50 | Nov 24, 2003 07:35pm | #10

   VL,

   After performing the procedure to get the blade parallel to the miter slot first, is it then necessary to perform a second procedure to get the fence parallel to the blade?  If so, is the second procedure about the same as the first one, i.e., measure from one tooth to the fence as it is rotated almost 180 degrees?

   Kenneth 

1. 
   VeniciaL | Nov 24, 2003 10:54pm | #11

   None,

   Yes, it is essential that you get the rip fence aligned. I've never directly adjusted the fence to the blade, although that could be done, and technically, it's more accurate.

   But it's easier to align the fence to a miter slot.

   VL

2. 
   Elcoholic | Nov 24, 2003 11:54pm | #12

   Get a good rip blade for ripping.  Use feather boards on a well adjusted saw for the best results.  I haven't tried the so called "Glue Line" rip blades so I can't say if that claim is fact or fiction.  I swear by FS Tools blades.  I can't imagine any decent 1hp saw would have trouble ripping 4/4 anything so I'd stay away from thin kerf blades and stabilizers.  I doubt that any blade will give you a finish quality ripped edge, but a good one will get you within a couple of passes with a hand plane.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

6. 
   DGreenbaum | Nov 24, 2003 06:33pm | #8

   To All:

   I have been a professional cabinet maker for over 18 years.  Out of all the tooling mfgs. I have done business with, I have only found one that can provide the service, quality and reliability I am looking for.

   As far as saw blades are concerned...I have wasted allot of money on the hieped-up, over advertised saw blades.  If your looking for the pros who will bend over backwards to service your needs, then take my advice and call Lietz Tooling, Jasper, IN. (812-481-1492).  They have the best saw blades I have ever used.  They will custom make any tooling you need.  In fact I have a Knapp Panel saw that uses a blade with a 30mm bore.  Leitz made a dado set, bored the 30mm hole, and it cuts, smother than any dado blade I have ever seen.  The cost was less than the over-advertised Forest set.  I know because I made the mistake of buying one about five years ago.

   I hope this will help many of you.  Tooling is not cheap.  Shop smarter, cut smoother, and have fun building fine pieces of furniture.

   Toolman