Replies

1. 
   AZMO | Mar 23, 2010 11:17pm | #1

   Waht tool/machine? Hand saws, band saws, tablesaws.. size of tool, material you are cutting? 

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Mar 24, 2010 12:39am | #2

   Saw Blades

   Some are larger and some are smaller.  Some are round and some are straight.  Carbide-tipped blades last longer than steel blades.  

3. 
   jointerman | Mar 24, 2010 01:19am | #3

   I'll just assume 10-inch table saw blades. I've tried and used a lot of them. I don't know why, but they seem to be at that affordable luxury price point for me. I tend to order them when sitting in hotel rooms while surfing the forums and thinking that I'll actually have time to get good at woodworking someday. Disclaimer: I got a new saw last summer and I haven't gone back trying them all again yet. Disclaimer 2: I am really just beyond beginner in terms of ability, and I think that I only work wood in order to justify buying tools.

   Forrest 40T WW2 - Fast smooth rips and crosscuts but has a tendency to burn on rips (it's my current favorite)

   Forrest 40T WW2 - Special Grind Flat tooth profile, good blade but a little bit slow, I may have to try it again

   Tenryu Gold Medal - Former favorite but it has an odd kerf and wouldn't work with my Biesymeyer splitter. I would not have gotten the FWW2 if this blade fit my splitter at the time. I think it'll work with the riving knife on the new saw, but then I think the WW2 is built better in terms of side by side visual comparison.

   SystiMatic 80T Veneer Blade - Excellent blade for veneers, but I just used it to cut melamine and got a lot of chip out though.

   SystiMatic 24T FTG Rip Blade - I got this because the FWW2 was burning 2 and 2-3/4 thick cherry wood on rips. This blade does not leave a finished edge. So a quick trip to the jointer or planter is required. Then again, a smooth burned cherry surface requires that too!

1. 
   JerryW | Mar 24, 2010 07:51am | #4

   I never equate burning with saw blade quality, unless it is terribly dull.   Burning is generally caused by the cut closing on its self, behind the blade due to either wood movement or a rip fence that is not parallel to the blade.   While the splitter or riving knife should limit this,  there often is a mismatch between the kerf width and the splitter or riving knife thickness,   I judge blade quality on surface finish and ease of cutting - and of course how long these criteria are maintained.

   Jerry.

1. 
   jointerman | Mar 24, 2010 11:23am | #5

   I think that you're right that it's not really an issue of blade quality. For my Forrest WW2, I've set the fence on the back side of the blade to be slightly out of parallel as recommended by Forrest and also I slide the fence back into a "ripping position", this has eliminated almost all of the burning. The issue really only came up with the 2-3/4 inch cherry which is why I used that as an opportunity to get a rip blade. 

   I'll have to look more into the riving knife thickness vs. blade. 

4. 
   Knotscott | Mar 26, 2010 07:22pm | #6

   A little more specific info

   LOL, that's a darn broad question...a little more specific info would sure be helpful!  

   Like most people, I did my own comparison:

   http://woodworkerszone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Table_Saw_Blade_Comparisons

   Jointerman - A 40T WWII has too many teeth for most 2-3/4" stock and simply creates too much friction and burns.  Raising your blade higher might help, but 30T or less will cut more efficiently with less heat, though cut quality will suffer a bit as you've discovered.