Replies

1. 
   walnutjerry | Feb 10, 2006 04:28am | #1

   I have used clear epoxy quite a few times with success.  I use the 5 minute setting epoxy and lose very little time in production. The finish I use is a clear finish and the "patch" is nearly invisible.    Worth a try!

                                       Jerry

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 10, 2006 04:40am | #2

   While this is often recommended I have never seen it work well.  The sawdust/glue combination doesn't take stain or finish very well, and will only by happenstance be inconspicuous after the finish is applied. It is generally much better to make the fix after stain and some of the finish have been applied so that an exact color match is possible. 

   The clear epoxy just mentioned can work if the area is limited. The thing to be aware of is whether the epoxy "wets" out the wood to the same color as the finish.  May need a very light coat of the top coat under the epoxy to get the color right.   

   I assume you are using a film finish.  In that case stick shellac or lacquer is the best method albeit somewhat challenging.  This is applied after the stain and a first coat or two of the top coat have been applied so the color can be matched with the appropriate stick or sticks.  It gets melted into the defect, smoothed to the surface, and then covered with the final top coats.  Takes a fair bit of practice and a good eye, but can with care be virtually invisible.  Distinct grain lines may have to be painted in, or even textured in with a warm needle, but just about every thing is possible. 

   Colored waxes can work in some situations.  Much easier if the match is good. 

   If a film finish isn't used, in my opinion the best solution is to avoid the defects, since an oil finish reveals all. 

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/9/2006 8:44 pm ET by SteveSchoene

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Feb 11, 2006 05:30am | #6

   Hi Steve,

   I have a sinilar issue as does BC.  I'm trying to match some imperfections (joints) in solid cherry and am using a finish of Tung Oil.  Can you recommend something that will work with this finish?

   My latest attempt is using cherry stain mixed with wood putty.  Got the color very close but I noticed that the oil from the stain seeped into the adjoining wood.  Not sure if this is going to cause a problem with the Tung Oil?

    Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   Use whatever tool needed to Git 'r Done!

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 11, 2006 06:00am | #7

   Once the stain has cured it shouldn't bleed any more when the oil is applied.  Might take on a different gloss because the absorbancy is different, but if you built a modest sheen with 5 or 6 coats of tung oil it should be pretty inconspicuous.  (I assume you mean real 100% tung oil, not "Tung Oil Finish", which may be a thinned varnish or oil/varnish mix.  It ought to disappear even more in that case.

   Usually wood slivers, with the grain running the the right direction is the best way to deal with an errant joint, short of recutting it.

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Feb 12, 2006 04:49am | #8

   Hi Steve,

   Thanks for the reply/input.  The Tung Oil is ZAP Tung Oil - Wipe on Finish so I suspect it isn't pure tung oil.  I will follow your suggestion about multiple coats (5-6) thin coats.

   As a final coat, I'm thinking of putting on 2 thin coats of Liberon Black Bison of Briwax.  What do you think about that approach?

   Regards,

    Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   Use whatever tool needed to Git 'r Done!

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 12, 2006 05:49am | #10

   BriWax contains toluene among its solvents.  This can soften finishes that aren't fully cured.  Its fine after you give the finish a month or so to cure to be conservative.   (I don't know the Black Bison, except I've seen it in catalogs for a long time.) 

2. 
   bigfootnampa | Feb 15, 2006 05:36pm | #13

   You might well have some problems... to avoid them in the future, apply at least one coat of finish before doing any fill work.  I use glaziers or painters putty (the same product in different cans) mixed with universal  tinters.  This is commonly sold in paint stores premixed as color putty.  When I apply it I will let it set for an hour or two and then polish the area with a clean cotton rag to remove the oil halo.  I like to get at least on topcoat over the fill and always have at least one under it (to prevent bleeding and haloing).  The finish before the fill also helps to get accurate color matches. 

3. 
   greendrake | Feb 10, 2006 08:19pm | #3

   Hi   I have been using for many years is Dupont DUCO cement,looks like plastic model cement,dries fast,mix that with the dust from what sanded that needs filling or if you are going to stain use the white powder filler the the stain you will be using,you can experiment on scrapes first for color match.

    

   Rick

1. 
   BCurtis | Feb 10, 2006 11:18pm | #4

   Hi

   Thanks for all the input. I think I will try the Dupont method. Thanks again. I will post a picture of product soon.

   BC

1. 
   Ricklapp | Feb 11, 2006 02:51am | #5

   Liquid hide glue will take stain, so using that with sawdust ought to work quite well.  CA glue works too.  Rick

4. 
   jmanuel | Feb 12, 2006 04:52am | #9

   BC

   The fine sawdust method has worked well for me.  Be sure you use hide glue as the binder.  It'll absorb any finish stain better than any other glues I've found.

    

   JM

1. 
   BCurtis | Feb 13, 2006 04:42pm | #12

   Jmanuel

   Thanks for the reply. I will try the hides glue.

   BC

5. 
   tangomike | Feb 12, 2006 06:37pm | #11

   I second the hide glue suggestion. Aside from the smell there is a lot to like about this adhesive, in particular it's ability to stain and finishes. Titebond makes it easy with hide glue bottle product.

6. 
   spitfire | Feb 18, 2006 12:36am | #14

   I am with Steve on this.

   Filling in imperfections with sawdust does NOT significantly improve larger imperfectiosn and gaps, it looks exactly like what you did, filled in with saw dust.

   Keep practicing your dovetail joints!

     

7. 
   dlb | Feb 21, 2006 05:17am | #15

   Something to experiment with: 50% water + 50% yellow (or white) glue + saw dust.

   The undisciplined life is not worth examining.