Replies

1. 
   ian_cummins | May 12, 2001 12:53am | #1

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   Bruce, Whenever I rip on the table saw, I allow a bit of extra width, 1/32nd or so and then run the sawed edge over the jointer or clean up the edge with a sharp hand plane. Being new to woodworking, you may not yet have discovered the joy of the hand plane. I know I went way too long before learning how to sharpen one myself. I wasn't successful at sharpening until I bought a simple honing guide and a few waterstones and this helped me get the feel of the process. It is difficult and laborious to sand out saw marks and they do tend to reappear after finish is applied.
   Ian

1. 
   scott_murray | May 12, 2001 09:07am | #2

   *Bruce,Ian's point is well taken. The hand plane or a joiner will work best, although the joiner will probably need to be followed with a touch up with the sand paper.If these aren't available to you, make sure you use a sanding block of some sort (scrap wood, etc) when you sand the edge and work through successive grits. Saw marks take alot of elbow grease to erase. Sanding without a block will cause the edge to round over somewhat, while using a block will help keep it crisp.Also, if you check some of the other posts, you'll read that table saw alignment and type of blade used will have some effect on more or fewer saw marks on your lumber.the rev

1. 
   Don_Stephan | May 13, 2001 04:32pm | #3

   *Pigment stains are solutions of very fine grains of color, which quickly collect in fine depressions in the wood (such as saw blade marks, sanding scratches, ...). Sometimes you can find such depressions by wiping the raw wood with naptha (which will evaporate and have no lasting effect on the wood). Ditto the comments on planes, but you might find it easier to start with a scraper blade, at least on smaller projects. As a beginner I found it easier to learn to sharpen and use than hand planes. Jeff Jewitt's recent book Great Wood Finishes is an excellent beginning reference on finishing, and I just finished reading Garrett Hack's book on handplanes and learned quite a lot.

1. 
   john_gonzales | May 15, 2001 10:44am | #4

   *I've had the same problem. I've started to use dye solutions, because I read they are more transparent and don't collect in crevaces. In oaks thats good, but in maples and other tight grains thats terrible. It does work better.john g

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | May 16, 2001 03:32pm | #5

   *Bruce,I agree with Ian and would highly recommend that you get a #7 jointer plane. Hand planes are, IMO, very basic tools and easy to use. FWIW, a hand plane was the second tool I learned to use (the first was a hand saw). I would not recommend a scraper to joint edges for two reasons; a card scraper has to held in such a manner that it has a slight radius and therefor your edges will be less than perfect, it also is not as efficient as a plane. I use a #80 cabinet scraper and card scrapers for surface work not edge work.To minimize saw marks, make sure that your TS is in perfect alignment, use high quality blades, and get a "link belt". I put one on my TS about a week ago and am amazed at the difference. Before I put this belt on, I could stand a nickel on it's edge, needless to say I was doubtful that a link belt would be an improvement. I was wrong, the saw runs a lot more quiet with even less vibration (smoother cuts). I put on my DML combination planer blade and ran a piece of 4/4 Red Oak through and the edges were as smooth as a baby's butt. My point is, a properly tuned TS will perform cuts with minimal saw marks but, shouldn't be considered as a "finishing" tool.Dano

2. 
   wedgehead | May 25, 2001 03:31pm | #6

   *As in the above posts, get yourself a decent used hand plane, tune and sharpen it, and make yourself a shooting board to clamp to your bench for edge work. I am just discovering what a time saver these "obselete" tools can be. I can usually make two passes with a plane and the edge is ready for stain, glueup, whatever you might want. Above all, have fun using your "new" hand tools.