Replies

1. 
   highfigh | Nov 24, 2006 08:01pm | #1

   mwenz- a little help here?

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
2. 
   mwenz | Nov 24, 2006 10:19pm | #2

   Oops...been pretty busy of late and only sporadically hitting the forums. Sorry everyone...

   The least trouble and often less expensive sets are those available from both LV and Joel at Tools for Working Wood. These are made by Somax.

   Blue one for finer teeth, gold one for larger teeth. The only difference is the width of the strike pin.

   http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=MS-SAWSET.XX&Category_Code=TFA

   Don't go by the numbers on the anvil. They do not equate to the number of teeth per inch and are simply useful as a relative guide to remember where you set the anvil or a given ppi.

   The 42X or W series are fine sets. I personally don't like pistol grip types of sets as it is uncomfortable for me in use. The Somax are what are called the plier type.

   Take care, Mike

1. 
   rbarlow | Nov 27, 2006 04:09pm | #3

   thank you very much for your reply good info!  I will try a new one rb

2. 
   AdamCherubini | Nov 28, 2006 02:10am | #4

   I have several sets myself, including the plier type (Morrill) and the stanley pistol style. I prefer the 42X because of the way it grips the blade before it sets. But I set in the saw vise and I find that for shallow saws like dovetails, the 42X grip either hits the handle, or the saw vise. Does this happen to you?Adam

1. 
   mwenz | Nov 28, 2006 02:36am | #5

   Hi Adam,

   Yeah, another reason I don't like the pistol types. The Somax, which is an Eclipse clone, also has a plunger which engages the blade before the strike pin touches the tooth. The vintage Eclipse is a better set, though.

   The Somax's plunger is not as strong a grip as the 42, but it does help. On small joinery saws with less than about 1/2" usable depth below the handle, its design has a portion of the set which rides on the cheek of the saw, limiting the ability to set those teeth. But one can set those teeth with a 16d nail and a block of hardwood. Lay the saw's toothline on the block [I use Maple] and lightly punch every other tooth, flip the saw and do the other teeth.

   Once set, you can even the set out with a smooth-jaw machinist's vise and a sheet of notebook paper. That is done by wrapping the paper around the toothline and up the sides of the blade. Then squeeze the toothline in the jaws. The tooth's tips pierce the paper, the paper against the sides of the blade limit the amount of bending back of the teeth the vise does. Obviously one needs to tighten the vise on the teeth slowly else you can break the teeth. This also doesn't work well if the teeth are overset by a great amount. But it does work well.

   For saws with enough depth, I actually use a German set which comes down directly from the top and is also a plier type. One feature about it, which I also have on a Morrill, is a limiting bolt which only allows the set to close a given amount.

   I have two of these sets, one of which I have modified to work on finer pitched saws and the other is used only on handsaws. The depth limiting bolt makes for an even set undependent on equal applied pressure.

   On one of my 42X sets, I cut off the lower portion of the handle in order to avoid the handle issue. But like the Somax/Eclipse, if the usable depth is below a certain amount under the cheek, it also doesn't fit. On any of them, if needed, file off whatever gets in the way.

   Take care, Mikeback to the salt mine...