Been Mostly Lurking.
Got my new saw! 3Hp Granite Steel City (It has MITER Slots! no less!)
So I was able to make a Jig Finally!
Did allot of digging on here and found one that I liked and built it yesterday. I am trying to build the “Assembly Table” base that I saw
on the “WoodWhisperer” web site as my saw was not up to making precision (anything), the Drawer’s were mostly trapizoids of perfect
deminsions but not a 90 degree corner on anything.
So Thanks KNOTS! and Fine Woodworking and the numerous folks here!
I have a question though.. I made these Zero Inserts and I want to run my Riving Knife (yea new saw has one!) with the Insert I made for it.
I am wondering if I should just align the fence with the cut out
on the blade, then remove it and put the factory insert in and just
rip out the back end of the Insert?
Replies
I did as you mentioned, then cut out the slot on my band saw...much cleaner cut.
Welcome to knots, I lived in San Diego for 10 years or so and my son and daughter in law still live there.
................................................
Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.
~ Denis Diderot
I have the Steel City 5 HP and make my own inserts but.. the type saw is regardless I suppose. I also cut the slot for the splitter (riving knife in your case on my small BS) as I have found over the years to be the quickest and most precise method. A wood file will clean the inside edges.
BTW... I do not care for exact zero clearance inserts as all TS have some run-out. I use a small file and file just a hair off each side of the zero. I also extend the slot on both ends just a hair to avoid the thump on take-off and the zing sound a normal zero clearance has when the blade touches the sides of the exact clearance.
Good luck...
Sarge..
Edited 12/8/2008 1:02 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
I lined up the fence with the edge of the factory insert, then ran the ZC insert over it through the raised blade leaving a couple of inches at the near end. The factory insert is open at the far end to provide clearance for the riving knife, so you may as well follow suit. That way you don't need to go through the tedious business of raising the blade through the ZC, except for the dado ZC. I did make a hole for the hold-down screw at the front end, and screwed on a protruding washer underneath the far end of the ZC to provide some stability. A ZC that's open at the far end may be more likey to flip out.
Jim
Yea I was thinking of adding that ( a lip underneath the far end) and I purchased some 5m hex head screws so it is locked down in the front.
Just a thought for stability (not sure if you can do this on the steel city now that it has a granite top) I took a note off the sawstop ZC and they all have magnets on there inserts, that gives the plate more than enough hold so it does not vibrate or jump at start. i add 4 small rare earth magnets to the bottom of my ZC inserts, this stops all the noise plus it is so easy to take it out and put a different insert in. Hope this gives you an idea to try.
Jason
I wound up adding small "feet" to the front of the ZC and then use the hold down screw to fix it in place. The magnet idea is nice but there seems to be a lack of ore in my top!RichCapt. Rich Clark
--DUCT Tape is the "force"... It has a Light side and a Dark side and it binds the universe together
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled