I need to buy a router table and lift. Festool’s is a complete system, but the Saw Stop appears to be very similar to the Excalibur which was rated very highly by Rollie Johnson several years ago in FWW. Does anyone have information that would help me decide which way to go? The table will be located in a shop, not taken out to site work. Thank you all in advance!
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Replies
I wouldn't spend $2300 on a router table even if I had it to burn. You could buy a used shaper for that.
The SawStop stand alone table looks like a good buy. Couple that with a lift and router motor and you have a first class assembly for a fraction. About $800. Think seriously about how you would use it. I have thrown together a shop built assembly for next to nothing, attaching the base of a handheld router to a plywood insert for multiple units for a production job. A nice table and lift with dedicated motor is nice to have, I have used a bench dog for many years, but there is no reason to spend a fortune.
I recommend mounting the router table on the tablesaw no matter what. Dead space gets used and you have access to the mass of the saw and use of the fence. I was in the market for a router lift but went with the Triton 3HP plunger instead. It is purpose built for use upside down in a table and has all the features of a lift built in. I saved a canoe load of cash and could not be happier.
“[Deleted]”
The Festool table is slick but, Festool routers rarely make it into the top of any reviewers list. The drive towards a Festool router table would be that one already has a lot of other Festool gear, especially the router. I'm a Festool owner so, don't get me wrong. It's great stuff but, the value is in the "system" more than in the "one off" purchase.
If you do not already have their vac, sanders, routers, etc. I would lean toward integrating one into your saw. If you already have the Saw Stop (I do) than their extension would theoretically integrate well.
If you have neither the Saw Stop or the Festool stable of tools, I would take a more focused approach. Choose your router motor and lift; that's the heart of your system. Choose your fence; that's the soul. Build or buy the table that supports those choices. Build it into your saw if at all feasible. Mine is stand alone but, bolted to the tablesaw. This gives me the mass and surface area of both machines for both jobs.
I like to keep my fence simple and easy to add on to; stops, feather boards, etc. I like my table just as simple and versatile. I tend to really push the boundaries of use on my router table and tablesaw. I don't try to make them do everything but, they can do so much.
Lots of woodworkers, lots of opinions ;-)
Differences of opinion, but I would never put a router in a table saw, just would never work for me.
A router table only needs to be flat. A cast iron table is nice, but it is really quite easy to build your own.
Never say never. ;-)
I've had my Woodpecker lift built into my 52" tablesaw extension for years and find it a efficient use of space in my moderate sized shop. Outside of occasionally needing to remove the router fence for tablesaw operations I have seen no drawbacks to this arrangement. I could see a problem with the router being mounted closer to the saw.
I have the Festool router table connected to my Festool MFT and use Festool router Nd dust collection system this works well for me . It is a pain to change router bits . I just lift the router out so I can get to it better.
I just purchased the SawStop cast iron standalone table. It looks slick and the lift is nice but the table is crowned like crazy. I checked w a 24" starrett (not even the full length of the table) and it was crowned more than 0.02". When I reached out to SawStop to address this I was told that the 0.02" crown was within the spec'd 0.015" crown allowed through quality control at the manufacturer. What the heck? In what universe is 0.02" less than 0.015"? Not buying any more SawStop products after this experience.
izf,
Did you measure the flatness of the table with a router mounted in it? A good router table is made with a slight crown in it so that it flattens when the weight of a usually hefty router is hanging from it.
I have a Veritas steel router table (no longer made, I'm sorry to say) that has a slight crown of the amount you mention - until the Triton router is hung from it, which makes it go dead-flat.
Mind, the Veritas table top is made of 1/4" thick steel and consequently has some flex. I'm not sure that a ribbed cast iron top would have similar flex: enough allowing the weight of a router to pull it flat from being slightly crowned.
In all events, a slight crown in a router table is far less of a problem than any kind of dip at the router 'ole. Such a dip effectively makes such a router table useless. But a slight crown still allows the router bit to cut accurately - as set. The only penalty of a slight crown might be that long and dead-flat work pieces might rock slightly when on the table. Unlikely with the slight degree of crown you mention, though.
Lataxe
Lataxe,
The crown is with a medium duty router attached. No luck on the cast iron table flexing, unfortunately. While the crown is preferable to any dip, it does make for poorly fitting joinery cuts (think sliding dovetails).
Furthermore, there is enough crown that the aluminum extrusion on the fence has to flex when tightening it to the table. This means it ends up walking slightly. What used to be a 10 second procedure now takes much longer and a bunch of test cuts to make sure I'm happy with the setting. All in all, it has been a very frustrating and disappointing experience.
Incra
Incra - mine is 20 years old, and as precise as the day I bought it. It takes a bit more shop space, due to the fence arm design, but it is deadly accurate and bullet proof.
I’m not a fan of tablesaw mounted routers. I did this early-on, and grew frustrated with the disconnected workflow.
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