Replies

1. 
   _mj_ | Dec 22, 2020 03:59pm | #1

   Awesome saw, many "first shop" folks are drooling as they read your post.

   I have the 3HP PCS and the miter gauge is in the "not bad" category..no experience with the incra but I have a Rockler with the flip-stop that I use as my primary.

2. 
   rich14925 | Dec 22, 2020 04:56pm | #2

   I have the 5 HP ICS and the smaller sliding table. Consider that instead of the Incra miter guage.

1. 
   nickb213 | Dec 23, 2020 12:59am | #9

   I just bought the incra 1000hd to use with my sawstop ics. Once you get it right in the miter slots it works great.

1. 
   fsebastian | Aug 02, 2021 05:53am | #13

   I just picked up an Incra 1000 for my 3 HP PCS and cannot get the expansion discs to expand enough to eliminate the slop in the slot. Am I missing something?

3. 
   [email protected] | Dec 22, 2020 06:39pm | #3

   I have a SawStop and Inca. While making an angled cut I put the Inca into the blade. Being metal it triggered the SawStop brake. I have since replaced the cross piece on the Inca with wood. This will keep me from making the same mistake. Definitely upgrade the miter gauge but use a wood cross bar.

1. 
   john_c2 | Dec 22, 2020 06:57pm | #4

   I decided to go with the Olmec, rather than the Inca.

1. 
   K_King | Dec 23, 2020 01:15am | #10

   I tried searching for the Olmec but couldn't find anything.

1. 
   thebardowl | Jan 01, 2022 10:32am | #21

   Google “Inca, Olmec, Aztec, and Maya”

2. 
   thebardowl | Jan 01, 2022 10:31am | #20

   Bah-dum, tssh!

1. 
   john_c2 | Jan 01, 2022 11:31am | #22

   No one got it first time around.

2. 
   [email protected] | Jan 01, 2022 05:07pm | #30

   Here’s a photo of my SawStop safe mitre gauge.

   
4. 
   Beasley7 | Dec 22, 2020 07:31pm | #5

   I have both a SawStop and the Incra100SE. It is an awesome combination. Once calibrated, which is very simple, my cuts have been dead-on. I have put the metal arm into the blade (twice) which has cost me $150 in brakes and $200 in blades. I like the larger indents in the SE vs the HD gauge. It is easier to lock into the desired angle. The long extendable arm and stop are also nice when working with longer pieces. As an added bonus, if you decide to go with the Incra Miter Express instead of a sled, the SE mounts nicely and makes a nice upgrade. Not much I can say about the SawStop that hasn't already been said. It's an awesome piece of equipment that produces incredible cuts.

   One piece of advice, if you do go for the Incra, mount it on the right side of the blade. If you get used to it on that side, then won't have to relearn anything when making cuts with a tilted blade. The blade tilts to the left, so you always want to tilt away from your miter gauge.

1. 
   ral3wood | Dec 22, 2020 11:35pm | #8

   Hey - saw your post about replacing blades - have done the same a number of times over the years but have never replaced the blades. I usually use Forrest blades with full 1/8" kerfs - sometimes will lose a carbon tip, but never had one "warp" after triggering the cartridge. I just pull them off the cartridge and keep using them!

   Also - either Forrest or our local blade sharpener can replace those tips and check the blades if you are concerned.

1. 
   kikodoss | Dec 23, 2020 02:52pm | #11

   I had my first Saw-Stop trigger (hit a bit of foil that I accidentally left on insulation). The blade was the stock Saw Stock blade, which had performed well until that point. Interestingly, when I removed the blade from the brake, one of the carbide teeth came off. I called SawStop to see if the blade was worth saving, and they immediately said "Chuck it".

2. 
   Beasley7 | Dec 23, 2020 06:46pm | #12

   The official line is that triggering the brake can cause microfissures in the blade. That means the blade can disintegrate and fling bits of metal if you continue using it. Not worth the risk for me. I just man up and pay for my mistake.

5. 
   jfsksa | Dec 22, 2020 07:56pm | #6

   I have the 3HP PCS and use a Wood Haven miter gauge. Concerning the saw, I upgraded from a Grizzly cabinet saw and am glad I did. The Grizzly is a good saw, but the SS is made of heavier materials, has a better fence and is better quality overall (also costs twice as much). I love it. I also love the WH miter gauge. It's accurate, didn't break the bank when I bought it and has positive stops at all the normal angles. I made it wider by adding a strip of hardwood. I don't miss the sliding stop that the Incra has. I don't have a cutoff saw and use the WH for virtually all of my 90' cuts. If I have to cut a long board, I just use a hand saw.

6. 
   K_King | Dec 22, 2020 10:41pm | #7

   Thank you for all the feedback and helpful comments. The SS miter even when locked down moves a tiny bit so a wider board that is a little longer looses the 90. I will definitely use the right side of the blade due to angle cuts. Also a huge thank you for the reminder about cutting into the miter fence, that would ruin my day. I have never seen a small slide table for the SS, I will also look into that. I will most likely swap out to hardwood in case I am thinking about the next steps of a project while I am oblivious and rip through the fence. This seems to be a really cool site, everyone is friendly and offer good sound advise. I am glad I signed up.

7. 
   eddo234 | Aug 02, 2021 10:08am | #14

   I’m a firm believer in sleds instead of miter gauges. I have a 90 degree sled, 2 45s (for each side of blade), and a dado sled for the tablesaw, and various sleds for my shapers. Perfect angles every time. A track on top of the fence with a flip down stop and clamps makes it even more enjoyable. When I need an angle other than 45 or 90, which generally means I’m trying to match some odd cut, I put a shim behind the piece I’m cutting to match the half-degree or so. I make my own sleds, starting with a 12 foot piece of 3/8 x 3/4” 1018 steel, which costs $35 more or less, and can make 5-6 sleds.

8. 
   Cliffhawk | Dec 31, 2021 03:32pm | #15

   New Sawstop owner (Contractor with cast iron wings,36" T-fence), newbie woodworker. So after putting the saw together , I left the fence on one of the wings for a couple of days in a garage that is not heated, (It got warm and cold in a matter of days) in the Piedmont area of NC. when I went to calibrate it, there is now a rust stain where the fence was. My question is, is that normal and should I store it over on the wood extension when not in use, because it gets very humid down here.

1. 
   esch5995 | Dec 31, 2021 04:01pm | #16

   Yes a film of rust developing on cast iron and steel tools in humid environments is very normal and not just limited to Sawstop. Depending how humid and how much you use your tools a monthly or even weekly wipe down of your tools with a rust inhibitor is strongly recommended. You product of choice is up to you commercial products intended for this such as BoeShield can be effective, as well as Products such as CRC or WD40, others use paste wax to provide a degree of protection to their tools. The important thing is to use something that will not transfer to your wood or affect finishing so no silicon. FW did a very in depth test of many popular rust inhibitors a few years back that you may want to check out. I also recommend a dehumidifier, mine has all but eliminated rust issues in my basement shop whole offering a better environment for wood storage.

2. 
   pizza | Jan 01, 2022 04:04pm | #29

   Hi. I too have an unheated garage shop and always have to deal with hot and cold days/nights that result in moisture on my machines (table saw, bandsaw, drill press, jointer etc). I have successfully dealt with it by doing two things...first I make sure I've removed any hint of rust on the surfaces (with a Scotch bright pad or rust eraser) then follow that with a coat of wax rubbed into the surfaces. THEN, I cover the surfaces when they are not in use with a large towel. These two steps work wonders. Been doing this for years. Really stops the rust from forming.

9. 
   Cliffhawk | Dec 31, 2021 09:48pm | #17

   Thanks, ehch5995 , the second part of my question, not worded correctly ,was in the future should I always leave the fence on the wooded extension part of the table. Since that rust happened in just a few days. I haven't even use the saw yet. It only rusted under the fence (I have two perfectly straight lines on the extension wing),no where else.

1. 
   esch5995 | Jan 01, 2022 01:08am | #18

   Probably caused condensation caused by the fence limiting air movement so the answer is yes keeping the fence parked off of the cast iron table would help but I'll stand by my suggestion that you will need to keep the table protected and take steps to control the humidity in the shop or all your tools will continue to have rust issues.

10. 
    Cliffhawk | Jan 01, 2022 08:59am | #19

    Thanks esch5995 will do. Happy New Year !

11. 
    vickers | Jan 01, 2022 11:45am | #23

    I have an early version Sawstop. Great saw, except to is hard to control the sawdust. The blade spins the sawdust straight back into the user's face. Any ideas how to improve this?

1. 
   john_c2 | Jan 01, 2022 12:54pm | #24

   The sawdust comes up out of the back end of the insert, because of the long opening for the riving knife. The solution is overall dust collector. Imnot sure if you saw came with one.

1. 
   vickers | Jan 01, 2022 02:25pm | #25

   I believe I do have a Sawstop insert that replaces the current riving knife and also provides a shield over the blade. Is this what you are referring to?

1. 
   john_c2 | Jan 01, 2022 02:48pm | #26

   Yes.

1. 
   vickers | Jan 02, 2022 03:29am | #33

   I installed the blade guard and it works great. Almost no sawdust on the table top. Thanks.

2. 
   weymouth2 | Jan 01, 2022 02:56pm | #27

   I’m not sure if this fits your version, but I have this:

   https://www.sawstopstore.com/product/dust-collection-blade-guard-assembly/

   It works great for me. The 4” port on cabinet is connected to dust collector and the dust port on the blade guard goes to my shop vac. It’s very effective.

1. 
   _mj_ | Jan 01, 2022 05:28pm | #31

   That dustbladeguard works great! I have a second drop off my ceiling run of 5" DC pipe that goes to a flex hose hanging above the saw. No need for the shop vac if you can work out a second DC connection.

12. 
    DRBWWing | Jan 01, 2022 03:14pm | #28

    For the same price you could have gotten a 3HP and sliding table.

    A 5HP with a 10” blade is no advantage. Most take 12-14” blades.

    You got a beast of a saw, just mentioning to others considering.

13. 
    lordulrich | Jan 01, 2022 07:17pm | #32

    I have the 1.75hp PCS and the incra 1000 HD, and it is really nice. A good old crosscut sled is still my go to but the Incra is a nice upgrade. Both high quality products.