I purchased an extra SawStop insert plate drom which I want to make a zero clearance plate.
I tries to cut a slot with dovetailled edges to slip an MDF plate.
Trying to cou the plate on the table saw, lot of sparks are generated ! Can I cut that material on my saw ?
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Replies
Use the existing plate as a template to make one from wood. Once you have the plate fitting right you can raise the spinning blade through it. Best to clamp a 2x4 or something over it. Sometimes the blade does not have the clearance and the plate will not sit flat before the slot is cut. I have used a similar kerf circular saw blade (smaller diameter) to make a relief cut or make a slot with the router. Mine are plywood or mdf. They aren't pretty but who cares?
You can't use a smaller diameter blade on a sawstop.
Of course there is a "Sawstop reason". I guess they are stuck with the "or" method
Sawstop sells a zero clearance plate. It it different from the standard plate.
Buy that one or make your own. The factory plates have a bit of hardware in them.
It shouldn't be a problem. if you're worried, use the bypass.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYrTZSIB6V4
you can use a chisel or gouge to make a groove in the bottom of the wood insert so it clears the blade. Done it many times.
Or just buy a Colliflower insert.
DRBWWing is onto the better solution.
Hi Raynewman,
what is a DRBWWING ?
Also let me add to all comments, that I thank you for your advises.
I already use baltic birch plywood nor for my zero gap insert.
I like the way the SawStop locks and levels. I want to make a plate similar to the one showed into this video but using the SawStop plate..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVb9VDUk6U4
In fact I was surprized by the amount of sparks when I tryed to cut a groove in the plate; my question is about security cutting it and will my carbide blade endure the treatment. Of course it can bt resharpened.
I was not happy with my colliflower insert.
The guy took ages to ship. Literally, like 6 weeks after, I contacted him several times, each time saying he would ship it right away.
Then when I got it, the tolerances sucked. It didn't sit flush at all. Different at all points. I tossed it right away.
I didn't even feel like dealing with the guy again.
I'd say get on Etsy. I've had much better experiences with inserts for various tools from there.
The phenolic core and melamine of the SawStop inserts can dull carbide if you cut or machine it; however, one 5 second cut in an insert is insignificant.
It has adjustment screws, doesn't it?
The sacrificial insert part was the issue, not the plate that has the adjustment.
It was for my S.S. JSS, not my PCS, though. I'm not sure if those are different or what, but that was my only XP with it.
Considering the delivery frustrations, I'd never give it another chance.
Of course, it's just my personal experience. Maybe his machines were whacked out, or he was having a tough time personally. I understand.
I will say he was nice enough throughout it all.
Hi,
I finally found what was the problem; the plate I purchesed was the plate with the slot made for the riving knife. I discover there is 2 small stell plate where the anti-kickback pawl apply pressure.
There is an other plate availlable without the riving knive slot and steel plate in the back.
As for making your own ZCI's:
Do you know of anyone with the Fine WoodWorking Archive? A shop- fabricated zero clearance (ZCI) insert for the SawStop is different as it requires a few clearances cut outs on the underside to allow the blade to fully elevate.
The Fine Woodworking “Tools and Shop 2016”, page 61, has an article by Bob Van Dyke for shop- fabricating SawStop ZCI with a diagram as to the size and depth of the cut outs.
"Or just buy a Colliflower insert."
Yep. You can make your own refills out of scrap.