For the 1.75hp PCS I would be curious to understand what the majority for a blade. Thin kerf or full 1/8” kerf blade?
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Replies
In the past I have owned a 1.75 hp table saw. I have found that using a thin kerf blade heats up and the effect is a wandering blade that gives a less than perfect cut. When using a full kerf blade take your time pushing stock through and you will get a cut on the wood edge that is much more in tune with quality(depending on your choice of blade) Specialty blades have their place, do not hesitate to purchase a high quality blade for your project/furniture. You will not be disappointed. good luck
My last saw had a 1.75hp motor, and really needed the thin kerf blade.
I have the 1.75 PCS. I have full kerf rip and cc blades. If I could do it over I’d go with thin kerf, but the saw does fine with larger stock if I manage my feed rate and keep the blades clean. I use the ss combo blade for most cuts, though.
A full kerf combination blade is your best choice for most of your operations and will give better results. The one exception for an underpowered saw is ripping thick stock, so a thin kerf rip blade for that operation would be advised.
I have had this saw for about 10 years and use every kind of blade with it. For ripping hardwoods, I tend to use a 1/8" square toothed "heavy rip" Freud blade and have never stalled out ion anything (although I feed something like hard maple slowly). I use this blade for 1/8" grooves as well. I use all-pupose thin kerf blades for conserving stock when needed, and the full kerf ones as a general use blade. I don't think you need to worry about it with the SS -- it powers through most things.
I have the Sawstop 1.75 PCS and normally run a Forrest II blade. Have ripped 2" stock in the past and never had a problem. A quality blade and a slower feed rate has produced great results. I do have a thin kerf glue line rip blade I use when cutting stock for cutting boards. Again, no issues. I had 220 available, but still made the choice to go with the 1.75hp saw. Best of luck to ya.
When I had a 1.75HP saw, I used both thin and full kerf. If I was ripping I used TK. Crosscutting seemed to handle full kerf fine.
Definitely TK for ripping.
I've never experienced the heating and wandering. Always use stabilizers with TK blades.
I have the PCS with the 1.75 HP and I use the Forrest Woodworker II full kerf. I just haven’t had any reason to go with the thin kerf, I have cut up to 8/4 oak and maple with it.
I have never used a thin kerf but never used a saw with less than 2Kw (about 2.5HP) my current saw will bog down a bit if the cut is too hefty and it's a full 4HP.
I don't think there is any plausible home saw that would not have to account for the work being done.
I recall an article (but could not find it quickly) that showed no difference in cut quality between thin and regular kerf blades so I'd go thin.
I have used a Sawstop brand combination full-kerf blade since I bought my Jobsite saw. It's a servicable blade, stays sharp for a reasonable period of time, and just works well giving a very smooth cut. I think the Jobsite saw may even be a 1.5 HP motor. No power issues and I have cut thick oak and maple with it. I do own thin kerf blades, but haven't used them recently. You should check Sawstop specs for kerf thickness though, since there are some minimum thickness limits. I think that is more from their concern about blade strength if the brake should be triggered. There are some thin kerf blades that could be under the minimum thickness. Also, my Freud thin kerf blades don't work well with the riving knife it's equipped with. I have just continued to use the standard kerf blade as it works.
1.75hp PCS and using thin kerf for crosscut and rip -- no issues.