I don’t have a ton of space and would like to install a router on the right side of the base table instead of attaching it to the right wing. In other words I want my router table to be where the right wing would be and have it be alot smaller width wise which is perfect for me.
I think this guy here did it but that does not look like the right wing because there is a miter slot in it so I’m just confused a little how it was done or how I should do it.
What is the right wing made out of? Can I cut out the router table opening to install my router plate in it?
thanks for any help!
Replies
That looks like the Sawstop router table. I might be mistaken, but I believe you can attach the right wing, and then the router table, or skip the right wing and just attach the router table, as in your picture.
But I could be all wrong.
oh wow that is what I'm looking for, to just attach the router table, instead of the right wing I'll try and call sawstop tomorrow
You should ask two questions. 1. Can the cast iron router table bolt directly to the saw, or does the cast iron wing need to be in between? 2. If you do that, will the front and back fence rail holes line up with the holes on the router table? It would be nice not to have to drill new holes in the fence rails. You'd still need to cut the rails down.
You can also mount the router table to the left of the saw body.
That's a nice setup! (Mine.) That wing is cast iron, I bought it like 25 years ago to fit another saw. I gave the saw away but kept the wing when I upgraded to the SS. I'll see if I can find paper on who made it.
yes yes yes it is you I got it from one of your posts! thank you so much for the help I want to do exactly this I don't need the wing and then router table, they can both do their job as one like you have, thanks for the help!
and yes I know my fence rail will just be extended out there by itself but I would just cut it, I just don't need all that width and space is limited.
I think I'm not that concerned with the actual table I'm realizing, I can use the one supplied by sawstop but what I am concerned about and what you can speak to (I think) is the actual clearance from the only obstruction I see which is the spinning wheel on the right side where your router hangs below the table
edit: I don't want it to seem like I'm giving you chores to go measure this and measure that for me please I hope it doesn't come across as that :(
I did cut down the straight handle on the right side handwheel to get better clearance. I could not find any info in my files or on the casting.
I'm assuming the 45s on the dust collection is on purpose?
Should I be redoing mine with 45s instead of 90s?
Do the 45s prevent buildup or just maintain higher velocity?
Doesn't the Sawstop router table go in the right-hand extension table? Not the cast-iron wing. That's my impression from the ads in the Highland Woodworking catalog--not a great source for photo reproduction on newsprint.
I have a Sawstop with the extension table--the 37-inch, intermediate size PC version--and have thought about putting the router there. I also have a nice Woodpeckers router table. It is two or three inches wider than the distance between the two rails on the table saw, and I have no idea of how I would attach it if I tried my own version. I've thought of cutting down the router table stand so that I can remove the extension table and simply slide the stand into place between the rails and not actually attach to the saw. A friend suggested mounting a router plate in the existing plywood extension table, but it's not strong enough. Another friend suggested cutting the phenolic router table top so that it fits between the two table saw rails--but how you attach it is a mystery, and the rail don't allow ready access for screws. Since the router top is wider than the rails, I could simply hang it on them, but the phenolic would be unsupported and might sag over time. That's why Sawstop uses cast iron.
Normally, to the right of the saw is the cast iron wing, then a melaminelike extension. The melamine can be different widths, for the 36" or 52" rip capacity. The cast iron router table replaces the melamine.
I'd love to get back the space that my router table occupies. It's the perfect spot for a comfortable chair and a stack of Fine Woodworking magazines.
I just installed a Saw Stop router table on the right side of my SS CNC table saw. I replaced the stamped steel wings with cast iron. I then added the 9” cast iron SS filler to the right wing and then added the 16” SS router table to the right of the 9” filler. I had to add 3 countersunk holes to the rails to properly support the 9” filler and router table. My saw has a custom made roller base so I can move my saw around. The roller base was designed to also support the 36” SS extension table on the right side. By adding the 9” filler and the 16” router table, the support legs for the router table lined up with my custom roller base perfectly. The setup works great and when I’m not using my saw or router table I just roll the whole setup into a corner of my shop. Buying the cast iron wings, cast iron filler and cast iron router table was not cheap by any means. It cost me $1200 but it’s the perfect setup for my needs.
This wing is 1-1/2"of MDF. The template came with the lift. Fence attaches to the TS fence.
chiwoodworker
Can you provide a picture of the underside of your mdf wing?
What lift are you using?
Thanks
Go_Bills. It's 2 sheets of 3/4 mdf glued together to make 1-1/2" which happens to be the thickness of the cast iron. The lift is a Woodpeckers PRL. Which work fantastic as long as you clean the chain and gears regularly. The dust collection "downdraft cabinet" is a Rubbermaid garbage can with a 4" drain fitting from the hardware store. All I have currently are videos too large to post here. I will take a few shots and post them next week.
Thank You
I used the black melamine coated extension table that came with my 52" Sawstop PCS. It has framing on the bottom side underneath the 3/4 inch thick top that stiffens it from sagging. The plate (12" x 9") and lift for my router just fit between the framing underneath, so I cut a hole and rabbetted a recess for the plate, and my router (3hp Hitachi) hangs there year round. Over 10+ years I have not had sagging. So in my opinion you could get by with this solution. A cast iron table extension would be super stout, and I miss having a groove for a miter guage, but the price was right and it was minimal work. At worst, you'd find you'd rather have the full-meal all-metal deal and be ready to pay for it.
I did the same (I think) as mlindy but I only have the 36 inch fence. Put in a miter track and build a separate router fence system that I can clamp to the saw fence for adjustement.
One issue is the over blade dust collection pipe does get in the way from time to time.
To install I either used the template that came with the router base or made one myself (I can't remember). Overall, because you can use the saw fence for alignment, it is pretty straightforward. Good luck!
Very Nice Guys
Can you think of any disadvantages of having the router in your table saw wing - other than the potential dust collector pipe interference
Thanks
All of my dust collection is from underneath. The main disadvantage is the fence and space being used for both machines, it can take a minute to switch back and forth. Just takes a bit more planing.
For my shop it is the perfect spot. I don't use the overblade dust collection, so that pipe is not in the way. My outfeed table (also a workbench) does not extend out all the way to the end of the 52" right-of -blade space so I can work from the right side of the end of the table to feed pieces to the router bit. I use an accessory router fence that clamps to the table saw fence, like rickinindy, and it's convenient to move the fence, though some sort of microadjust like on some dedicated router fences would be nice, but is not part of the SS fence. The main downsides are that tools, pushstick and pushblocks get stashed on the "other side of the fence" when I'm doing an operation and need to be picked up when I go from tablesawing to routing. Also the fence needs to be moved going from tablesawing to routing and sometimes on wide cuts the router bit needs to be lowered or taken out to allow movement of the fence. Minor inconveniences, but if you were doing a lot of work where you cut workpieces on the saw, then move directly to routing, it would be better to have separate workstations. A second dedicated router fence, rather than using the table saw fence, would solve some of those situations, but it's not been enough of an inconvenience for me in my usual work to bother with that.