Replies

1. 
   RickL | Jan 29, 2007 06:47pm | #1

   The glued up scarf joint jig was perfected many years ago using a router and clamping fixture to hold the wood being scarfed. An average of 10 to 1 is the preferred angle.

   Typically mouldings  are scarfed at a 45 degree angle. You might check with guys at FHB. Sounds like more a trim carpentry question than a furniture question.

2. 
   Floss | Jan 29, 2007 06:49pm | #2

   I guess your talking about architectural crown moulding.

   I always used a butt joint with a biscuit and snapped it into place. Cut the pieces anywhere from 1/8" - 3/16" heavy and coped the ends so that there was a sharp edge and slipped in a biscuit and glue then popped it into place.

   Probably the fastest and best looking joint over time. Scarf joints, like 45 or 30 degree bevel, always show after a few seasons of movement. Generally they show up after the house has been dried out when the HVAC system is finally turned on.

   I also used to run my base the same way.

   You will probably get some more lively responses over at breaktime.

   J.P.

   http://www.jpkfinefurniture.com
3. 
   kenshep | Jan 29, 2007 11:24pm | #3

   I try to avoid scarf joints on crown moldings. I use the decorative blocks in/on corners and decorative dividing blocks on long runs. Butt joints only this way, though I do back cut them a little bit for a tight fit. This is partly because I have a short bed pick up, but mostly because every house I have lived in has been so out of square that it just makes the intersection of the joints in inside corners and outside corners easier. At Lowes and HD these little 'cheaters' are displayed at the end of the aisles where the trim is located. In my family room, I have an open/vaulted ceiling with gables on both ends at 14 feet. The wall meets the ceiling at a 45 degree angle. I cut the corner blocks to fit the sloped ceiling and also ran a small crown to the peak of the ceiling. Upon reflection, I probably should have run the same size crown to the peak, but I'll live with it for now.

    

   Regards,

   Ken

   "Do as you would be done by." C.S. Lewis

1. 
   woddy1031 | Jan 30, 2007 04:09am | #4

   Thanks for your comments, I appreciate your input!

4. 
   JMartinsky | Jan 30, 2007 07:01am | #5

   Dear Woddy,
   OK, here's my method, based upon twenty years of trim work in Greenwich, CT. All butt joints, here's how:

   1) The main "trick" is to cut the pieces an 1/8" or so long and "spring" them into place. Definitely glue it, but the bending or springing in is the the most important points. On coped corners, you should hear the coped piece cut into its mate.

   Further enhancements:

   2) Back the splice with plywood, glued & screwed from behind on one piece and glued & face nailed on the other.

   3) Rip 2x stock at an angle to match the void behind the crown, nail or screw that to the wall, and then glue & nail the crown to that.

   4) Biscuit the joint.

   Again far and away, the most important part is the extra length, the rest is for good measure. I've never had one of these open up. The joints that always seem to open are the scarf joints. Even made correctly, it is inherently weak and it is a large, noticeable joint. I have disassembled moulding from some old "Victorians" and they always used butt joints. I know that it may seem too good to be true, but it is the best way to go.

   Best,

   John

   
   

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   Edited 1/30/2007 7:44 am ET by Jmartinsky