Replies

1. 
   ctsjr | Feb 17, 2007 01:39am | #1

   I don't use any lubricant at all. I haven't really needed it, and don't think it would work well with the sandpaper. I can see where WD-40 would give problems to the adhesive in the PSA paper. The highest grit paper I use is 1200, and that's so smooth it's soapy. Tom

   "Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"
1. 
   Walnutz | Feb 17, 2007 02:15am | #4

   WD-40 is the oil that 3M recommends using with this particular paper.  It has absolutely no effect on the psa's stickiness.  The lubricant simply helps the metal slide on the paper better, and also acts as a means for the metal particles that are being removed to be moved from the sandpaper to the edges.  After a few strokes, you'll start to notice that the oil becomes black at both ends of the paper.  This is from the metal particles being removed. 

   One of the finer points of this particular paper is that the abrasive is embedded into the paper, so as you sharpen, you are constantly renewing the abrasiveness of the paper.  This is why it lasts longer than other papers, and is worth the few extra bucks.

   Someone on the thread mentioned how expensive this stuff is.  I laughed without commenting.  In the long run, this stuff lasts 5 times longer than any of the other brands being mentioned.  I know, I've used them all.

   Walnutz

1. 
   DustyGeorge | Feb 17, 2007 06:12am | #11

   Walnutz,

   I got the sample pack of 2 each sheets from Tools for Working Wood - 40 micron, 15 micron, 5 micron, 1 micron and 0.3 micron.  The 40 and 15 are gray and marked on the sheet.  Then there is another gray sheet that is still gritty.  That must be the 5 micron.  Then there is a green sheet and a white sheet that must be the 1 and 0.3 micron.  But which is which?  They are both so smooth that I can't feel a difference.

   Thanks, GeorgeYou don't stop laughing because you grow old.  You grow old because you stop laughing. - Michael Pritchard<!----><!----><!---->

   <!----><!---->

1. 
   Walnutz | Feb 17, 2007 07:21pm | #14

   George

   The green is the fine, and the white is the super fine.  Use the white sheet last for your final polish. 

   You'll find very quickly that many times, especially when touching up an edge, that the green is all you'll need.  I can shave hairs off my arm after green, so many times, I don't even bother with the white.  That being said, it's good to have.  When I have to smooth out a table top, I use the white as the final honing on my smoother blades, and it makes a difference.

   Walnutz

2. 
   JLB1946 | Feb 17, 2007 01:56am | #2

   I have used sand paper on glass for years and I think the very lite oil (perhaps 3in1 works well, you get a little slurry.  I have done it dry, but the time you get to 2000 grit there isn't much dust.

    

   JB

3. 
   jeff100 | Feb 17, 2007 01:59am | #3

   Dry?..yes. Water?...yes. I make sure I use a wet/dry paper if I use water, and water helps keep the paper down on the granite/glass (otherwise I use a little tape). Personally I haven't tried oils/wd-40 but don't see why that wouldn't be very effective. With the water, you get a slurry going with the fine grits and I find that very effective....I've seen people advise spray adhesive to stick the paper down, but I personally won't go that route, sounds like too much work to clean up the stone and change paper/grits.

   Jeff

4. 
   9619 | Feb 17, 2007 02:43am | #5

   DG,
   I use sandpaper from 600 to 2000 grit from the local automotive stores, and I use it dry. It works for me.

   From reading everything I could find on Scary Sharp, I have come to the conclusion that everything works. You might want to try some Johnny Walker. Just don't put it on the paper. :-)

   Enjoy,
   Mel

   Measure your output in smiles per board foot. 

5. 
   RMillard | Feb 17, 2007 02:50am | #6

   George,

   In the past I used kerosene, but I disliked the smell.  For the last few years I've been using a mixture of mineral oil and a little odorless paint thinner. It does a good job of lubricating, has no odor, and does not interfere with the bond of the sand paper to the glass.

   Rob Millard

   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

    

1. 
   Elcoholic | Feb 17, 2007 03:01am | #7

   I vote for dry.  The purpose for oiling an oil stone is to flush it out and keep it from getting glazed.  Abrasive paper is disposable so why make a mess?  I keep a piece of glass with 7 or 8  lengthwise 1/4 sheets from 320 to 2000 above my bench.  I can touch up a chisel or iron in a minute or two right at the bench.  I just blow the dust off with compressed air.  BTW I use a very light coat of 3M #77 spray adhesive on the paper and what little remains on the glass is easily removed with a single edge razor blade.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   The more things change ...

   We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized.  I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.

   Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC

6. 
   Ronaway | Feb 17, 2007 05:00am | #8

   Water with wet/dry paper

   Ron

7. 
   xmike | Feb 17, 2007 05:38am | #9

   I bought a scary sharp "kit" from somewhere, with instructions on how to set it up.  Those instructions suggested that I use baby oil or mineral oil - either would do.

   I had baby oil, so that's what I've used ever since.  Works well, even tho the smell is sort of odd in the workshop.

   Mike D :)

8. 
   highfigh | Feb 17, 2007 06:06am | #10

   WD-40 has cutting oil in it so that will work. I just use water to keep the metal particles from going airborne. I think that any lubricant may loosen the paper from the backing but when I use the PSA paper, I make sure I can hone more than one tool since that sheet will be toast when I get done. Most of the time, I use wet/dry paper and water to hold it in place and keep the particles in one place. If you do this dry, wear a good mask.

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
9. 
   forestgirl | Feb 17, 2007 08:52am | #12

   In my limited experience, water works fine, but I use regular W/D sandpaper (not PSA) and spray adhesive to stick it to the glass.  When I flattened the block plane sole a couple weeks ago, I worked until there seemed to be quite a collection of particles in the water that was on the paper, dabbed it up with a paper towel, put a few more dribbles on the paper and took off again.  Sort of like cleaning a regular sandpaper pad with the crepe block, ya know?  Extended the usefulness I think.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

10. 
    alanplanesaw | Feb 17, 2007 06:58pm | #13

    Dusty,

    I have never used PSA sandpaper.  Seems to me to be an unnecessary cost.

    I have always used 3M micron paper that is NOT PSA.  Then, I use water to hold the paper (finishing film) down, and I use water as lubricant.  It's cheap. 

    And, I would contend it works as good as anything else. 

    Best of all, it's easy to clean up.

    Alan - planesaw

11. 
    jeanlou | Feb 18, 2007 04:20am | #15

    George

    Any light machine oil diluted with mineral spirits makes an excellent lubricating oil for sharpening purposes. Even straight mineral spirits, without any added oil, does a decent job when used with oil stones.  JL

12. 
    bones | Feb 18, 2007 07:12am | #16

    I use a the scary sharp method with water. I bought a piece of granite from wood craft and a spray  bottle with water in it. I mist the granite, and put a strip of wet dry paper down and it holds it perfectly. I then hit the paper with a few spritz's and that is enough lube for me. works like a charm. 

    Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases:
    If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
    And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
    

    
    

    ---

    Edited 2/18/2007 9:51 am by bones

13. 
    Maine_tyler | Feb 07, 2012 09:01pm | #17

    simple green

    I saw a video where someone used simplegreen as a cutting fluid. Seemed like a good idea maybe...

14. 
    bones | Feb 07, 2012 10:09pm | #18

    This is old

    May not have noticed this is a really old post ( I did not at first)

1. 
   Maine_tyler | Feb 07, 2012 10:23pm | #19

   scratching at the scars. digging up old bones. tearing through the photo albums...

15. 
    Ronaway | Feb 08, 2012 07:35am | #20

    Film not paper

    The 3m micro abrasive is actually a film, not really a sand paper. I've used this material extensively and find that soapy water with a higher than usual concentration of soap works well. Baby oil is also a very efficient lubricant for this material even though it is a bit messy and requires cleaning off the iron when you've finished.

    The green material is the 1 micron and white is the .3 micron.

    This material is must more conducive to a micro bevel approach to honing. It does not remove material off a broad surface well and you will prematurely wear the film out with that approach. There are also ways to make using this material more efficient. You don't want to be sticking down whole sheets of this stuff and if you use a honig guide you don't really want the wheel on the material.

    I find it best to stick ths material down in patches (see photo) configured so that you can approach them from two sides. You can use the film right to the very edge of the patch which uses the film in the most efficient way. The long narrow strip on one edge is used to wipe away the burr on the back of the tool. You will actually achieve a higher polish with a given micro rating than with a comparable stone. The 5 micron paper will give you a polish similar to a 8000 grit water stone and the 1 micron will produce a polish well above what comes off an 8000 grit stone. I think this is due to more accurate grit sizing for this material.

    There does seem to be some pitfalls to this sharpening medium. Once the 15 micron becomes worn it is sometimes harder to pull a burr on that patch and I know of some that go back to their 1000 grit water stones to pull a burr and then finish the edge on the film. The other issue is understanding the film. Some think the patches are worn out just as I think they're getting real good. This could attest to why some think this an expensive sharpening medium.

    Ron Brese

    http://www.breseplane.com

    View Image

16. 
    ThomD | Feb 16, 2012 05:32pm | #21

    Scary sharp is a dry process.  One can do what one wants, but that is the system.  I find some papers that cut really well do not do so well with lube, as doubtless the reverse is true.  I have a little block that I took to seminars, and the cottage, and it lasted years, the same two pieces of paper.  So durability dry was not a problem for me.  Keep in mind that 2x72 knife grinders that "melt" steel away are run dry, they have the coating worked out to cut steel without lube.