scheppach 2600ci thickness planer electrical issue
Antfromwales
| Posted in General Discussion on
I bought a scheppach 2600ci thickness planer off eBay with what I was told was a faulty start switch.
the issue the machine had was that for the planer to operate you would have to hold you finger on the switch for an extended manor of time for it to operate.
So I bought a new switch and this somewhat helped as now the machine operates when you press the button, however as soon as you put some wood through it the whole machine cuts out and stops.
I took the motor to a local repair shop and they tested the capacitor and said they we all fine and couldn’t see anything obvious wrong with it. Told me it may need re-winding but the motor wasn’t really worth it.
any though would be appreciated and a new motor is 600 euros.
Replies
I am not a motor or motor control expert. But "motor controls" are often called switches, but they are more than that. They have protection for the motor, including what I believe are usually called heaters. These need to be sized correctly for the motor. Was that process part of your new switch?
hi ctsailor
heaters are there to detect by simulation when the motor has run for some time and with too much current. You would expect them to shut the motor down after some time, if you are working it too hard.
this does not seem to be the situation that Antfromwales described
radiodon
Agree with ctsailor that too small heaters could be the problem. Some machines have them separate from the on/off switch, especially older ones. There is usually information on the inside of the switch box or heater box (if separate) on which size heater to use for each motor amperage.
Generally, if the motor has a burnt winding and still runs, it won't run smoothly and quietly. A good motor shop should be able to check the resistances of the individual windings and see if one is shorted out or open. But I'd only go that direction if the heaters are correct; check them first.
In this case, the thermostat is embedded in the motor, there is a second switch tied in the main switch, could be a emergency stop or a interlock, can you tell us what it is ? One more question, does it also stop when using the jointer as this is a combo machine and how does it re-start, after a length of time? as the thermostat, if it were the problem will reset when cooled down.
The switch your referring to is a safety switch. If the latch for the dust extractor bed is not securely latched it will not run in the planer position - if the handle behind the outfield table is not in in the locked position when jointing it will not run...When you flip the top open and turn the dust hood there is a latch that clicks onto the infeed bed. It can look like its clicked in but sometimes its not. When you go back to the jointer the handle below the bed has to be lifted and locked. Lifted? Well in the locked position anyway,up or down. If something is wrong with that switch,like a loose connection maybe, it will not run. That machine is exactly like the Grizzly 0675 -everything except for the paint. This explains Grizzly's claim that the machine was designed in Germany... they also claim that it was BUILT in the US which is a flat out lie! Scheppach probably designed it, built it for Grizzly- in China-- where they build their own. If you can find parts for the Grizzly they would almost for certain be the same and might be cheaper. I get it, no one fixes anything anymore but you would think whatever is wrong with the motor, if that is the problem , it should be cheaper to repair than 600 euros!
If the motor is fried maybe you would be able to figure out how to get an induction motor in there instead of the noisy universal motor. If you do let me know how you did it....
i do not know the tool, and its motor, and switch, but pantalones868 believes it has a universal motor which is basically a DC motor with brushes and commutator, while the original poster Antfromwales indicated that the motor shop checked the capacitor which indicates it must be and induction motor. A single phase induction motor almost always uses a starting winding and a run winding , usually with a centrifugal switch to open the start winding once it gets up to speed. he didn't mention who wired the new "hand" switch , and how many terminals there are but it might be worthwhile checking that wiring, if it has more than 2 terminals. If the problem is heater size, it would likely quit after running for a while which does not seem to be the situation. i wonder if it speeds up quickly in a second or so, or if it is a very slow acceleration?
If the winding connections are reversed it cant be expected to work at all normally, BUT NOW I AM NOT SURE WHICH SWITCH YOU MEAN? does "start switch" mean the switch you activate by hand or the one inside the motor??. i should have asked this before.
Don't invest big bux unless you KNOW the motor is defective
My two cents worth
radiodon
Hi Antfromwales
I thought my post above did not get here as it took days to show up here.. so i re-did it, with some different comments.. sorry about any duplication.
I am new here and know little about planers, but a little about motors,
I did not see any motor volts, amps, hp or type, on your posting, but from the info given, it is likely a single phase induction motor with starting capacitor and internal speed switch, and not a universal motor with brushes etc.
My guess is that the previous owner had problems and did some fooling around with the electric stuff, and might have made things worse before giving up and selling it.
From your notes he said that the “start switch” was not good. Do you KNOW if he means the speed switch INSIDE THE MOTOR
Did you change the speed switch INSIDE THE MOTOR, and perhaps connect it to the wrong winding, or more likely, it came to you that way.
If the speed switch and starting capacitor was/is connected to the wrong winding , it might just be able to slowly start and get up to speed but it wont have any power if it is trying to run on the start winding.. and will stall with little load.
Don’t give up and buy a new motor, until you know a winding is open or has an internal short.
Unfortunately we cant see the guts, so we are doing a lot of guessing.
Hopes this does not add too much to the entropy of the topic.
You might look at this.
https://www.linquip.com/blog/what-is-capacitor-start-induction-motor/#What_Is_the_Difference_Between_a_Run_and_Start_Capacitor
Good luck .. radiodon
I suspect that @pantalones is on the money here.
Were it mine the next step I would try would be to bypass the switch and all the safety interlocks altogether and use a simple switch to turn the motor on and see if it works. That being the case, you know the motor is good and can start to re-install the safety interlocks until you find a fault. Most motors will run without a fancy starter, and if you get back to the switch then you know an upgrade is needed.
Ensure you are confident in mains voltage wiring and ensure you do not disconnect the earth to the casing.
I take it back it is an induction motor....it just sounds like a universal motor.
What is a " cutterhead limit switch"? It has one of those.....it seems from the original post his cutterhead is limited...
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